Brunello Trattoria su 14
by Susan Gordon
“Bottle of red, bottle of white, it all depends upon your appetite … I'll meet you anytime you want, at our Italian restaurant.” Billy Joel isn't the only one who waxes poetic about Italian cooking. Everyone seems to have a favorite spot to eat Italian. Occasionally, it's an elegant four-star dining room in center city. But more often, it's a little pizza pub down the street or a neighborhood trattoria where the atmosphere is warm, the food comforting, and the owner knows your name. If that's the kind of welcoming, family-friendly spot you're looking for, it's time to check out Brunello Trattoria, a popular Italian eatery on the Jersey side of the Delaware River, just a few miles west of Flemington. Brunello has been a fixture in the Flemington area for a number of years, and current owner Sonia Tortoriello, who took over in January 2014, has continued the tradition of neighborhood hospitality, while bringing a new, more energetic vibe to the house.
Regardless of the season or the reason for your visit, Brunello's comfortable ambience will put you at ease. At the front of the house is a stylish modern bar where friends can gather to watch a game on the overhead flat screens, or enjoy live entertainment on Wednesday evenings. Adjacent to the bar is a casual dining area backed by a large wood-fired pizza oven: the perfect spot to huddle when the weather outside is less than accommodating. The trattoria's main dining room with its focal-point fireplace and country-chic décor is perfect for family suppers and elegant enough for special celebrations. And, in the warmer weather, diners can kick back and enjoy their pizza or pasta on the patio.
For the most part, the kitchen at Brunello sticks to the classics. If you enjoy Southern Italian cuisine, you will certainly be familiar with many of the dishes on the menu. For starters, there's the requisite Calamari Fritti made fresh with hand-cut squid; roasted peppers and anchovies; and a nice Antipasta Caldo with baked clams, grilled shrimp and stuffed scallops. We selected the Mozzarella en Carozza, four large wedges of fresh mozzarella coated in seasoned breadcrumbs, pan-fried and served with a side of light marinara sauce. The cheese was gooey and satisfying, and the breadcrumbs supplied a wonderful crunch. We also ordered one of the daily specials—an arugula salad with goat cheese and tomatoes, tossed in a light vinaigrette. Good portion size and fresh, tangy greens. I'm sure it will be even better when sweet Jersey tomatoes are in season.
At the heart of any Italian restaurant are the pasta dishes, and Brunello gives you good choices at great prices ($12.95-$16.95). You can stick to the tried and true Spaghetti Pomodoro with fresh tomatoes and basil, or branch out with Capellini Amatriciana, angel hair pasta with pancetta, onions, and fresh tomatoes. Of course, there's Linguini with Clam Sauce—either red or white, and homemade Gnocchi Bolognese, tasty little potato dumplings in a rich meat and tomato gravy. For our pasta course, my husband and I shared Brunello's homemade Ravoli Casalinga, a dish of plump little pasta pillows with a pleasant ricotta filling served in a simple tomato sauce with a hint of cream. A generous dusting of grated Parmesan enriched the sauce and brightened the favor.
In traditional Italian eateries, the entrée (secondo) course always features meat—usually chicken, veal or beef–or seafood. Again, Brunello's menu does not disappoint. From Chicken Parmigiana to Veal Picatta to prime aged steak, entrées are generously sized, moderately priced (most under $20) and prepared to order from scratch. For my main course, I choose a dish that always brings back memories of dining with my dad: Gamberi (shrimp) Scampi. Dad positively loved the stuff. Brunello's version contained five extra-large butterflied shrimp, seasoned with lemon and garlic butter, then grilled and served over a heaping plate of risotto, rather than pasta. The scampi sauce gave the rice a lovely, lemony taste, but the soft rice also absorbed the melted butter more than pasta would have, making the dish very, very rich. Needless to say, I didn't finish half, and went home with the next night's dinner already prepared.
My husband selected a chicken dish, Pollo Piedmontese, two large boneless breasts topped with roasted red peppers and fresh mozzarella then baked and finished with a mild pan gravy enriched with cognac. The chicken and peppers made a lovely combo, the cognac adding an earthy note. The dish was served with creamy mashed potatoes and lightly steamed broccoli, cauliflower and carrots.
Desserts remain true to the theme: homemade Tiramisu, Torta di Ricotta (cheesecake) and delicious house-filled Cannolis, to name a few. You may also want to grab a grappa or limoncello from the bar and toast la dolce vita.
Brunello Trattoria is located at 300 Old Croton Rd. Flemington, NJ; 908-284-4964; www.brunellosfinecuisine.com. Open: Tues–Friday, noon–10 p.m. Saturday, 4–10 p.m. Sunday: 1-9 p.m. Reservations.