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by Frank Quattrone
For years after its opening in 1939, bucolic, stately Durham Springs established a reputation as the go-to destination for weddings, parties, and special catered affairs. Situated on thirty-three acres of pristine Bucks County woodlands and meadows, the historic site, shuttered for a few years, is now being restored to its former glory, even as modern upgrades promise even more than the original site could offer.
New cofounders Dan Fehlig and Ian Humphries, longtime residents of Bucks County, bring years of experience and style from New York’s fine culinary and theatrical scene to their Durham Springs Culinary Center. They’ve tucked a new barn behind the original 1730s farmhouse and christened it the Durham Farm Suite, whose flexible seating arrangements and adaptable lighting have already provided new memories for several large catered events, whereas the Cascade Suite is perfect for more intimate gatherings. Separate entrances assure privacy for any event.
Throughout the complex are charming echoes of the past. An attractive new bar, featuring vintage photos of events celebrated at Cascade Lodge years ago. The wine cellar, where a running stream keeps fine wines at a cool fifty-two degrees all year round. Lovingly carved wood furniture from the early days adorning nearly every nook and room.
And now, with the fortuitous addition of much-admired Executive Chef Francesco Martorella, who was born and raised in nearby Ottsville, the sprawling catering complex has become a premier dining destination as well. A James Beard Foundation award winner, former executive chef at Center City’s Brasserie Perrier, and the owner of his own acclaimed restaurant Bliss, Francesco brings to the new Cascade the Restaurant an unmatched passion for great food. In fact, Dan Fehlig, who managed such acclaimed New York culinary havens as the Four Seasons and the River Café, said, “Bringing a star chef like Francesco here inspired us to create a fine dining experience for our guests.”
The menu, with touches of the chef’s beloved Italian heritage, is essentially contemporary American, regionally supported. Francesco says he loves the pork from Breakaway Farms and the Piedmontese beef from Washington Township. He uses sustainable, organic products, as much as possible, and continues to cook, as he is known for, whatever entices his own taste buds.
Sitting by the original fireplace on a frigid winter evening, Eve and I began our meal with the chef’s Imported Salumi Board, a wonderful arrangement of mostly Italian cured meat treats, including mortadella, Toscano salami, and rare Spanish Serrano ham, served with candied walnuts, dates, fig jam, and an impressive homemade onion-thyme pizzetta.
To warm us up for dinner, Karen Kozlowski, who serves as manager, maître ’d, and sommelier, recommended two cocktails inspired by Carey Jones and John McCarthy’s recent bestseller Be Your Own Bartender. Eve had Kick the Safe, a potent brew of Jack Daniels, lemon, maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, and cider, while I enjoyed a Posmo, a Cosmo variation made with vodka, pamplemousse (a delightful French grapefruit), and (get it?) pomegranate. Karen’s aim has been “to complement Francesco’s cuisine with food-friendly, biodynamic wines that spice things up for our guests.”
We followed up our salumi with two impressive appetizers. Eve, who doesn’t usually enjoy octopus, switched plates with me after tasting the chef’s tender Grilled Octopus, served with cherry tomato and green olives in a tomato vinaigrette—the best she’s ever had! Meanwhile, her Buffalo Mozzarella and Serrano Ham served with glazed cherry tomatoes kissed by sweet vinegar was more than satisfying for me.
Happy to reconnect with two former fans of his great Bliss restaurant, Francesco sent out tasting portions of two of his favorite appetizer creations—the bacon-like Pork Cheek served with celery root and pickled apple touched with sweet soy, and the magnificent wine-glazed Pan Roasted Hudson Valley Fois Gras, served with a butternut squash tart (superior to anything comparable I’ve had in France).
Believe it or not, more great food was on the way. Eve thoroughly enjoyed the Breakaway Farms Pan Seared Pork Chop (easily enough for two, and a treat the next night), served with house-made sauerkraut and spaetzle in a Dijon pork jus; but my own personal favorite was the chef’s delicate Pan Seared Diver Sea Scallops, served with butternut squash purée and beets in a brown butter sauce.
For dessert, our genial and well-informed server, Jayne Yovanovich, brought us Rum Baba, with Chantilly cream and a Piña Colada sauce and a Georges Perrier Soufflé Glace Grand Marnier. We enjoyed dessert while chatting with Rick and Joy Krager, a lovely couple from Durham sitting at a nearby table. Even though Cascade the Restaurant has been only open since last Thanksgiving, they dine here frequently, enticed by the chef’s splendid seasonal menus and the near-magical ambiance created by Dan Fehlig, who has degrees in architecture and theater, and partner Ian Humphries, who has studied and traveled abroad widely, bringing his own savoir faire to Durham Springs.
It’s an elegant destination for catered events, both on and off the premises, and now, with Cascade already drawing raves, for a dining experience you’ll never forget.
Cascade the Restaurant at Durham Springs is located at 5065 Lehnenburg Road, Kintnersville, PA 18930; 484-907-2100; www.durhamsprings.com. Open for dinner Wednesday–Sunday, 5–10 p.m. and, coming soon, Sunday Brunch, 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Available for catered events, parties, weddings, celebrations on and off premises.