by Frank D Quattrone
Although we didn’t arrive until dinnertime, we just had to try the Syrniki Classic—the signature dish at Newtown’s FLOURish Café, served daily from 7:30 a.m. until 3 p.m. An Eastern European specialty, syrniki are crispy-soft golden pancakes fashioned from creamy farmer’s cheese and lightly pan-fried. Served with fresh berries and sour cream, with a drizzle of house-made cherry jam, they alone are worth the price of admission to this elegant yet casual upscale café.
And yes—you wonder about that name? Why capitalize the word FLOUR? That’s entirely by design—another creative flourish from the fertile mind of chef-owner Madina Chilashvili, whose grandmother, a self-taught professional pastry chef in their native Russia, ignited her lifelong passion for baking. Chef Madina told me she made her first cake at the age of 9, her first birthday cake three years later and soon graduated to wedding cakes.
Today, the self-taught chef specializes not only in pancakes, Danish, and sweets of every kind but also in breads, buns, pastas, and a host of inspired breakfast, lunch, and dinner treats that longtime patrons and new fans like us find James Beard-worthy.
And talk about inspiration? Madina says the recipes come to her in dreams she writes down when she awakens, tweaking and testing them until they taste just right. So how did she end up at FLOURish?
She came to America at the age of 12, began baking from her home at 20, bought a commercial freezer and fridge five years later, and launched her passion for friends and neighbors. By 2019, she had successfully filled so many Christmas orders that her husband and dearest friend, Sahin, encouraged her to open her own bakery. They soon found what she calls “a cute space” at 777 Second Street Pike in Southampton and knew immediately that her magical “number” had been called.
Within a year, the bakery had become so successful that Sahin suggested a new location—this time in Holland, Bucks County—where Madina could also offer both breakfast and lunch, with all orders, every item—her modus operandi to this day—made from scratch. But with only fifty seats, the Holland site eventually became too small, so Madina and her brother, Kamil, her business partner, added their Newtown location (as well as dinner offerings), where they celebrated their first anniversary on April 26 of this year. Where, to no one’s surprise, they have been flourishing ever since.
“I have so much fun in the kitchen,” said Madina during our first visit, “and I love teaching my sixteen chefs everything I know.” True to her word, the sous chefs prepared a wonderful tasting menu to show us the range of Madina’s culinary genius.
Accompanying our Syrniki Classic (the earlier day favorite) was the popular Sicilian appetizer Arancini, golden-fried risotto croquettes lightly seasoned and filled with creamy mozzarella in a silky tomato basil sauce. Between these starters and our entrées, our courtly server Tina Conly made us two of FLOURish’s signature drinks. She made Eve a non-alcoholic Mojito, blending mint, lime, and sparkling water, infused by fresh raspberries and a hint of raspberry syrup; and for me, the vibrant, citrusy Sunrise—a refreshing blend of pineapple, orange, and lemon juice, with a splash of grenadine. More of Madina’s magic!
To accompany our main entrées, we were served a fascinating Caesar in the Crispy Garlic Bowl and a massive Italianate toasted Bruschetta “La Caprese,” virtually a meal in itself, topped with ripe cherry tomatoes, creamy mozzarella, fragrant basil, and drizzled with a rich pesto sauce. We enjoyed the Vegetarian Flatbread, lavished with pesto, zucchini, and eggplant, topped with paprika and tomato sauce; and Creamy Chicken Pasta—wide pappardelle enveloped in a sweet pool of savory chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh zucchini and mushrooms—a rich, earthy delight.
Also on the menu, for future reference, are (for breakfast) Italian Frittata and Eggs Florentine; (for starters) Beetroot Salad and Pumpkin Soup; (11 a.m. to close) Hawaiian Sandwich and Pulled Beef Flatbread; (3 p.m. to close) Gnocchi al Gorgonzola & Pear and Seafood Tagliatelle; and main entrées Kyiv Style Cutlet, Stewed Rabbit, and Branzino Fillets. Quite an impressive set of European choices, no?
But what would a meal at FLOURish Café be without Madina’s ever-changing signature desserts? We were absolutely delighted by the pastry maven’s Basque Cheesecake, topped with chocolate ganache, and a huge slice of her Red Velvet Cake, made with organic velvet powder, and accompanied by a generous mug of Dubai Chocolate Coffee (served with almond milk for this lactose-intolerant guest) and, for Eve, a fragrant demi of Turkish coffee, served in a traditional Ottoman cezve pot.
With plans to open a third FLOURish Café in Cherry Hill, N.J., this July as well as franchising more locations to anyone willing to respect her vision, it’s clear that Chef Madina’s “desire to bring European-style food, with every item made from scratch, to America,” is flourishing beyond her wildest dream.
FLOURish Café is located at 2817 S. Eagle Road, Newtown, PA; 267-983-7821; www.theflourishcafe.com. Open for breakfast and lunch, daily, 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and for dinner, Monday - Friday & Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m., and Saturday, 3 to 10 p.m. Available for bridal showers, business lunches, and milestone celebrations. Reservations accepted, except for major holidays.