By Frank D Quattrone
How about this for the perfect outing on a warm summer evening? Seated in the River Room at Francisco’s on the River, just a mile or so from Washington Crossing State Park, you can enjoy a marvelously refined Italian or Mediterranean dinner within view of the scenic Delaware River.
Long known as a destination restaurant, Francisco’s has been delighting guests since its opening in 2008. Self-taught executive chef-owner Francisco Argueta, who came to America from his native El Salvador in 1986, has learned his craft from a variety of sources, starting with his family’s farm.
“I was the only boy among nine siblings, with eight sisters. We all worked with my father, harvesting coffee beans and sugar cane, milking cows—everything you can imagine,” he recalls. “My mother made breakfast and lunch every day for the thirty or forty who worked the farm. I learned so much about fresh food and nutrition from them.
“When I came to my new country, I started as a dishwasher and moved fast up the line to cook and, eventually, to chef. I learned from all the chefs I worked for, as well as research in libraries, cooking shows, and,” Francisco began to laugh, “from an incredible internet site that featured more than 30,000 recipes!”
Through the years, Francisco has come to realize that “every dish has its own distinction. Personally, I love working with fresh ingredients and don’t follow specific recipes per se.”
The truth of that vision was fully evident the evening of our most recent visit. After the chef sent out a plate of hard cheese, green and black olives, and roasted red peppers to tease our palates, we ordered an amazing appetizer—Sautéed Calamari. Reminiscent of a dish my own grandmother loved to cook, and unlike the Calamari Fritti so popular in many Mediterranean restaurants, Francisco served up his calamari with garlic, shallots, and green onions in a delectable marinara sauce—a dish generous enough to serve as an entrée. My nonna would have been proud!
Our entrées, both from the Specials Menu, were even better. A crab fancier from the time I was a kid, I ordered the Jumbo Soft Shell Crabs Oreganata, a taste sensation, with soft shells tossed with shallots, fresh plum tomatoes, sherry wine, and fresh sprigs of aromatic oregano on a bed of spinach, accompanied by the best red bliss mashed potatoes I’ve had in years.
Eve’s entrée was our favorite dish of the night. She ordered the delicate, flavorful Halibut, topped with bits of fresh fennel in a saffron and citrus sauce, served with a side of sautéed zucchini, broccoli, carrots, and cauliflower, and a scoop of those great mashed potatoes.
Francisco says that plum tomatoes and fennel are staples of Italian cuisine, where he clearly excels. On a previous visit we reveled in the best Eggplant Parmigiano we’ve ever had—in anyrestaurant or Italian home. He and his sous chefs slice the eggplant as thin as they can, sop up the natural oils with paper towels, then lightly flour and pan-fry it. Between each two layers, the chefs add fresh basil, Parmigiano, and their signature homemade marinara. Sixteen mouth-watering layers of eggplant—a world-class delicacy, for sure!
But Francisco’s menu is far more diverse than simply Mediterranean. He says he trusts his vendors to recommend the best produce, seafood (like barramundi), or meats available for specials, as well as regular menu items. One that proved popular the evening we visited was Imported Kurobuta Pork Chop. Originating in Japan and initially imported there from Berkshire, England, Kurobuta is considered a heritage breed with high marbling, flavor, and tenderness. Guests raved about this special, topped with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, and gorgonzola cheese, drizzled with a balsamic reduction.
Although we passed on dessert (full from an exceptional meal), the restaurant offers a nice variety of homemade offerings, including Coconut Cream Cake, Crème Brûlée, New York Style Cheesecake, Tiramisu, Triple Layer Chocolate Mousse Cake, Flourless Chocolate Torte, gluten-free gelatos and sorbets, and Lemon Nonna, a lemon custard served in a pastry tart, topped with slivered almonds and powdered sugar. Next time!
Francisco says, “I love to make our guests comfortable and invite them to ask any questions they have about the menu items. Our staff are well-trained to answer any questions.” True enough. Both our server, Kelly Sliker, a veteran of thirteen years at Francisco’s, and our bus boy, the precocious and delightful Jackson Edgington, who said he’s excited to learn the business, entertained and delivered on a host of our questions during our last visit.
You would do well to make Francisco’s on the River a destination the next time you crave an inspired meal in a scenic location you won’t soon forget.
Francisco’s on the River is located at 1251 River Road, Washington Crossing, PA; 215-321-8789; www.franciscosontheriver.com. Open for dinner Tuesday to Thursday, 5–9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5–10 p.m.; and Sunday, 4–9 p.m. Closed Monday. BYOB. Reservations suggested weekends. Full range of catering options available.