By Frank Quattrone
Perched majestically above you in the front dining room of Geronimo’s Peruvian Cuisine is an outsized photo of Machu Picchu, the iconic 15th century Inca fortress rightly dubbed a wonder of the modern world. The image couldn’t be more appropriate for what is arguably the only authentic Peruvian restaurant in the Philadelphia suburbs.
Situated at the near end of a host of international restaurants along Butler Avenue, the heart of Ambler’s popular entertainment district, Geronimo’s opened in 2021, quickly attracting a loyal following. The reasons are clear. Eager to open their first restaurant, co-owners Daniel Salazar and his brother, executive chef and co-owner Benjamin Salazar, natives of Lima, Peru, chose this location because they recognized the adventuresome taste choices of the visitors and residents of Ambler.
They and their staff take pride in “educating” guests on the culinary culture of their homeland, with its extensive coastal fisheries, Andes Mountain delicacies, and fertile inland farmlands. Perhaps with just a touch of hyperbole, Daniel boasts that “there are 3,500 types of potatoes in Peru, which are very popular in many of our dishes.” Take, for example, the “Appetizer de la Tierra” (of the earth) called Papa a la Huancaina, an Andean potato dressed with a yellow cream sauce, queso fresco, a hard-boiled egg, and a touch of spicy Peruvian cheese sauce.
And then there is ceviche, a classic Peruvian appetizer consisting of raw fish marinated in citrus (usually lime) juice, which literally “cooks” the fish, firming the flesh and turning it opaque. Onions, tomatoes, and peppers are often added to the marinade. During our most recent visit, on a drizzly mid-autumn Saturday evening, we enjoyed (as part of our first course) the Leche de Tigre, a ceviche “cocktail” of wild sea bass and calamari, dusted with cilantro and choclo, a large-kernel variety of Andean field corn.
Speaking of corn, all visitors to Geronimo’s—named, by the way, after the Salazars’ beloved 94-year-old grandfather—will find at their table a complimentary bowl of crunchy, salty corn chips called canchitas, better known as Peruvian popcorn.
Daniel Salazar suggested that we launch our meal with Tequeños, a popular appetizer in his homeland served to any guests who visit. These are delectable deep-fried wonton wrappers filled with queso fresco and topped with huancaina sauce.
For our Appetizer del Mar (of the sea), we had the perfectly prepared Pulpo al Oliva, tender grilled octopus served over Botija olive sauce (especially popular in southern Peru), with avocado, roasted peppers, and toasted garlic bread. Our meal was accompanied by homemade Peruvian bread, with a special sweet quince-infused butter dating back to Daniel and Benjamin’s childhood table.
Perhaps our favorite dish of the evening was the Causa Limeña, an artfully layered dish featuring potato puree squeezed with fresh lime juice, avocado, and crabmeat salad topped with shredded boiled eggs. A pre-Columbian dish reimagined during Peru’s civil war in the second half of the 19th century, it can also be layered with chicken, shrimp, or vegan alternatives.
But the crowning glory of most Peruvian restaurants—and Geronimo’s is no exception—is Pollo a la Brasa, a magnificent taste explosion starring a charcoaled whole chicken, marinated in herbs and spices for 24 hours, and served with a salad and a side of rice—a dish hearty and delicious and big enough to feed a small family! Developed by Swiss immigrants who fell in love with Peru, this wildly popular treat is now grilled on the original oven used in the 1950s that the Salazars brought here to America just last year.
Good news for residents of Bucks County! The Salazars have just opened their second restaurant—Don Hector, where Pollo a la Brasa will be served “as a full experience,” according to the Salazars. Named after their father, Don Hector will first be available strictly for takeout and delivery. Here the charcoaled rotisserie chicken will be served with homemade Peruvian bread and paired with your choice of seven different side dishes, including various potatoes, pesto pasta, and more. Peruvian sanguches (sandwiches) will also be available.
Located in the Town Center of New Britain, Don Hector will be open seven days a week—Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays from 11:30 to 10. As of this writing, the website was still under construction, but you can check out Don Hector Peruvian Rotisserie Chicken (@donhectorusa) Instagram photos and videos.
Don Hector will be manned full-time by Benjamin Salazar, a self-taught chef who has worked in the industry for twenty-plus years, including at several Montgomery County restaurants. The mantra of the gregarious brothers Salazar has always been: “Go with your heart. What we’re creating at Geronimo’s is a unique positive energy that reflects the warmth and hospitality of our culture and our homeland.” The same applies to the friendly, efficient staff, including Christine Delise and Summer Han, who made us feel like royalty rather than happy guests. Don’t miss this rare and wonderful Peruvian dining experience.
Geronimo’s Peruvian Cuisine is located at 131-A E. Butler Avenue, Ambler, PA 19002; 215-641-0900; www.geronimosambler.com. Open Sunday, 1–9 p.m.; Wednesday-Thursday, 4–9 p.m.; Friday, 4–10 p.m.; Saturday, 1–10 p.m.; Closed Monday & Tuesday. BYOB. Pollo a la Brasa available for takeout Wednesday through Sunday, 12:30–3 p.m. Reservations recommended. Don Hector is located at 420 Town Center, New Britain, PA 18901. Open Sunday–Thursday, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. All takeout and delivery: Pollo a la Brasa and sanguches.