By Diana Cercone
Like jazz and the blues, barbecue is rooted in America’s fabric. That’s not to say other cultures don’t have barbecue. But as Italy claims pasta as its own, America can easily claim barbecue. Case in point: name an American city and you know the type of barbecue they’ll be dishing up. Be it beef-centric like Texas or pork like Memphis and the Carolinas. Or, perhaps, it’s more like Kansas City, known for its variety of meats, including burnt ends as well as a thick, sweet molasses-based sauce.
But what happens if the styles and flavors blur, blending in with high-end culinary artistry? Well, then, you’re talking about barbecue at Embers Smokehouse and Tap in Chalfont. Embers is the culinary combination of co-owners Alisha Riexinger and Chef Scott Borghi. He grew up in Bucks; Alisha, over the county line in Montgomery. Together they have 70 years’ experience of working in area restaurants—at every level—culminating in both classic and chic. It was at one of them where they met and over the course of working together for 15 years came to the conclusion that they not only worked well together, but also shared the same vision: making people happy through good food.
So when the opportunity came to open their own restaurant they jumped in with eyes and culinary know-how open. The restaurant for sale came with a brewer’s license. Where that would have deterred others, Scott and Alisha saw it as a sign to open a barbecue and craft brew restaurant. That was four years ago this past December. And judging by the nightly filled tables and bar with new and repeat customers, as well as a brisk takeout business for both food and craft beer, their prescience is paying off. (Disclosure: I count myself and friends among them.)
But make no mistake. It’s the food (and camaraderie, but more on this later) that draws them in and keeps them coming back. You see it in Scott’s presentation. As he says, “You eat with your eyes first.” Like in fine dining, each of his barbecue dishes comes dressed au jus. And like a work of art, there’s a well-placed pop of color on the plate, such as sprigs of fresh baby greens. (Friendly advice: Do neck exercises before you go, especially for your first time. You will be rubber-necking at dishes served to other tables. I mention this to Scott, who nods in understanding, saying it’s not unusual to have adjacent tables ordering the same menu items for just that reason.)
“We’re a mix of tradition and high-end [restaurant] skill set,” Scott says. He’s well-versed in many cuisines, Alisha adds. “Scott’s all about flavors.” His understanding of flavor profiles and how best to incorporate them into his creations rings the umami odometer every time.
Embers’ menu is chef-driven. All decisions, they say, are made together, “50/50.” There is no his and her domains. Though Alisha is usually found at the front of the house or pouring beers and crafting cocktails at the bar, it’s not uncommon for her to quickly change into her chef’s outfit and head to the kitchen when overwhelming orders signal an SOS from Scott.
“We’re a scratch kitchen,” she says. “Everything is made in-house.” For example she points to Embers’ different sauces which usually number around 26 that accompany dishes or by order. It would be easy, Scott says, to buy sauces from a food service. But then Ember’s food would taste the same as others. Unacceptable to his chef’s palate and ethos. Instead, like fine wine, each of his sauces compliments or contrasts the dish he creates. Take his Kickin’ Calamari. Not a dish you’d find on a typical BBQ menu. But, then, Scott and Alisha open up borders—combining traditional with high-end, culinary spins.
If calamari is on the menu, it’s a given I’ll order it. But more often than not, this Italian delicacy is mishandled and my high hopes with it. Rubbery and no doubt pre-seasoned and frozen, it usually comes with a lackluster marinara sauce. Not so with Scott’s. Nothing at Embers is pre-made and left under heat-lamps to keep warm—not even the best-ever cornbread you’ll find north and south of the Mason-Dixie. (So be patient. Sit back, relax, enjoy your beer, cocktail or mocktail. Remember: Good things come to those who wait.)
Scott hand-cuts fresh calamari and then dredges it in a breading all his own. As he puts it, a little take from Southern country cooking mixed with culinary refinement. The result is some of the best I’ve had. And his accompanying sauce—forgive me Aunt Theresa—but his honey chili lime aioli would wow even your Sicilian ancestors.
But before I savored it as well as other menu offerings, I had come for the barbecue. I wasn’t disappointed. And what a roster of BBQ choices. Scott serves up the main proteins of barbecue: beef, pork, lamb and chicken, and then stretches to seafood as well as vegan and gluten-free.
That first night I started with a half rack of their BBQ to the Bone. Five meaty St. Louis style ribs that Scott smokes low and slow over a mix of hickory and mesquite wood. It should be called Fall Off the Bone, so succulent and sweet and bathed in their own juices. Pick one up and tuck in. Then go ahead and smack your lips in sweet satisfaction. Both the accompanying cornbread and coleslaw are perfect partners.
Other barbecue on the menu include BBQ Chicken and Waffles served with maple syrup studded with thick slices of smoked bacon, prime grade A pork chop with an apple bourbon glaze, and Asian BBQ Salmon in a soy honey BBQ. If they haven’t run out of Brisket Burnt Ends, order immediately. One bite is all you need to know.
Just a quick word on Embers Armadillo Egg Appetizer. This is where Alisha’s chef’s chops shine. Most people think it’s an egg because of its shape, she says. It’s not. It’s a jalapeño pepper which she stuffs with four cheeses, wrapping it tightly in multiple layers of thick-cut bacon and then smoked to represent an armadillo’s amor. The accompanying Pork Au Jus contrasts nicely to its heat and richness. Labor-intensive, each is made to order, she says, and is “a labor of flavor and love.”
Family-oriented, Embers caters to kids’ palates as well with Grilled Cheese and BBQ Chips, Mac and Cheese, Burgers and Chicken Tenders. Rounding out the well-thought-out menu are soups and salads, appetizers, sandwiches, chili, sides and sauces. And if you still have room, there are homemade desserts.
Oh, then there’s Tasting Tuesdays. Started about two years ago, it already has a growing cult-like following. A three-course tapas menu, each Tasting Tuesday is built around a food theme featured in an appetizer, entrée and dessert. Past menus have included the Letter C, Triple Chocolate and Cheese to celebrate National Cheese Day. The theme is also paired with their craft beers.
Feeding everyone who walks through their doors extends to the wider community. In 2023 Alisha and Scott and the entire Embers family (which includes present and past employees, customers and purveyors) started donating Holiday Food Bags to people in need, feeding 170 people. Last year they fed 570 people, with the food delivered to families of Bucks County Opportunity Council, Central Bucks School District, the Laurel House and in the immediate community.
From practically the first day they opened, Embers became part of the community’s fabric. “The friendship with the initial staff and the pride that Scott and I have for Embers and equally for our staff made building the culture easy,” Alisha says. “There is a family within these walls not built on last names but built on care and respect. Having great food, great staff and a great community is what makes it a ‘Lightning in a Bottle.’”
Embers is a place where not everybody may know your name. But they make you feel like they do. It’s where customers come to celebrate milestones. And, when needed, come to be comforted or receive support.
If they ever decide to remake Cheers, the producers could do no better than to roll the cameras here.
Embers Smokehouse and Tap is located at 237 W. Butler Avenue, Chalfont, 18914; 267-308-8668; www.emberssmokehouseandtap.com; Tues-Fri 4-9 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., and Sun. 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Diana Cercone is an area freelance writer who specializes in food, art and travel.