By Frank D Quattrone
Although it’s moved on from its original concept—featuring honey, in some form, in virtually every item on the menu—Honey Restaurant has been consistent in one regard. In the words of co-owners Executive Chef Joe McAtee and his wife, Amy, who manages the thriving restaurant, it’s been a “love fest” from the word go.
An abiding love between the ebullient chef and his charming wife, who easily finish each other’s sentences and plan the exciting menu together. A love fest for their staff, chosen as much for their passion and personality (like servers Felicity Mangeri and Joey Coughlin, both students at Bucks County Community College) as much as for their experience. A love fest in the kitchen, for inspired food, and in the front of the house, to make guests feel like cherished family and friends.
At Honey’s cozy twelve tables, prepare yourself for a unique dining experience. The warm greeting is one thing, but the “small plates” menu will have your palate, as well as your heart, palpitating with anticipation.
Let’s start with the amuse-bouche, that single, bite-sized hors-oeuvre that magically appears on each table shortly after you’re seated. Our server, the calm, goateed Zen master Jason Brown, said, “We’ll start you off with a teaser, to whet your palate for the feast to come.” That teaser was a sourdough crouton topped with goat cheese and spiced cherry mustard. “A pleasant surprise, no?” as our cheerful complementary server Felicity soon added.
Since Honey has evolved into an exclusively “small plates” restaurant, there is but one menu, so a party of two will generally order five to six small plates. Chef Joe describes his menu as “reimagined American comfort food,” so prepare yourself for those special accompaniments that give each dish what the chef modestly calls “a little sparkle.”
Our first plate was Spring Rolls, stuffed with butternut squash, Napa cabbage, wood ear mushrooms, vermicelli noodles, and carrot sesame, accompanied by a spicy walnut sauce. The next, served in a metal Martini cup, was Fried Rock Shrimp Martini, embellished with sour apple guacamole, salted peanuts, puffed purple rice, and (believe it or not), a subtle splash of wasabi! Also in the seafood family was our third plate—Maryland Crab Cake (one of the chef’s favorite dishes anywhere!), served on a bed of sweet corn kernels, bell pepper bits, and “sparkling” diced pickled chorizo (!) in a saffron-chili aioli. Wow!
Next, we tried the chef’s inspired variations on two Italian staples. They were the “Meatball Parm,” featuring lamb meatballs served in a harissa tomato sauce, with Cypress Grove “Purple Haze” goat cheese over crostini (maybe not psychedelic, but certainly sumptuously spicy!), and “Risotto Cakes,” flavored with fried saffron, pine nut caponata, and aged goat cheese in a light oregano tomato sauce.
Still not full (and definitely not stuffed, as we decided to save half our meal for the following evening), we ordered our near-favorite small plate, Honey’s signature item—what Jason described as probably the only dish to survive all 18 years of Honey’s flavorful existence—the twice-cooked Black Tea Glazed Spare Ribs, falling easily off the bone and topped with pine nuts and toasted sesame, with a scoop of ginger ice cream (yes, you heard me!) on the side. Perhaps our best spare ribs—ever!
The only dish we enjoyed even more than the spare ribs was our dessert—“Take Six,” inspired by what Jason calls “the chef’s favorite, a deconstructed Take 5 candy bar”—a Callebaut bar of soft chocolate complemented by a scoop of peanut butter surrounded by a ring of peanut-pretzel crumbs, caramel, and malted raisins. OMG! With a demitasse of espresso, the perfect ending to an unforgettable meal.
So, where did all this inspiration originate? A self-taught chef, Joe McAtee credits his wife Amy, both of whom have extensive experience in the food business, for the synergy they create together. They’re also musicians. You can hear their first album of original music, “Kitchen Sync, Vol. 1-Honey Radio” (on Apple Music), permeating the restaurant and lending itself to the warm ambiance guests feel.
The chef says, “I don’t have a pedigree in cooking. Just like an original piece of music, what I do in the kitchen is not exactly a ‘recipe,’ like a cover song; it’s kind of unpretentious and creative—just the right amount of seasoning and creative flair—what tastes good to Amy and me.” And Amy says, “we just want our guests to have some fun, try something they know, then maybe try a wild card that will surprise and delight them.” The chef adds, “We don't serve anything that you could find at another restaurant because we want our customers to take a chance and try something new.” Anyone not satisfied with their small plate can simply “trade” that dish for another. No argument, no problem.
And every guest will receive what Joe calls “a secret parking tip upon making a reservation”—a bonus on the crowded byways of Doylestown.
Honey is a dazzling “love fest” of warm hospitality and inspired food. Don’t miss it!
Honey Restaurant is located at 42 Shewell Avenue, Doylestown, PA; 215-489-4200; www.honeyrestaurant.com. Open for dinner only, Wednesday to Sunday, from 5 p.m. Closed Monday & Tuesday. Reservations highly recommended, especially on Friday & Saturday. See website FAQs for details. Parking: see Amy’s texts. No catering, private parties, or delivery. Cocktails, wine, beer available.