by Frank Quattrone
It was a lovely Thursday evening on a sweet summer’s day. The main dining room of the stately country inn was quiet, save for the bustling serving staff. Yet the inn was bursting with cheer, as the brightly renovated JPub, its TV monitors alight with the latest sporting events during Happy Hour, was laughter personified, all locals—Peach Basil Margarita, J.A.I. Hazy IPA, or Highlands Cabernet in hand—cheering on their favorite teams.
Outside, on cozy tables protected from the sun, guests from near and far toasted their good fortune with Espresso Martinis or seasonal drafts, enjoying Battered Fish Tacos, Voodoo Flatbread, and Philly Cheesesteak Egg Rolls as acoustic musicians tendered soft notes to the relaxed atmosphere.
The Joseph Ambler Inn, twelve acres of manicured gardens, rolling meadows, and five unique event spaces, is that rare hostelry that blends Old World charm with modern amenities. On weekends the inn is overflowing, its fifty-two guest rooms often near capacity, with weddings, parties, and celebrations of every kind, in its acclaimed restaurant and event settings all across its fabled acreage.
It’s no surprise that this special destination on the border of Montgomery and Bucks counties continues to win kudos—most recently, Montco Happenings’ Awards for Best Outdoor Dining, Best Hotel, and Best Wedding Venue, among others.
On that clear summer evening, two guests who have enjoyed the inn’s allure many times during staycations and dinners over the last twenty-some years were about to rediscover why. Youthful Director of Operations Joe McClain, a mainstay at the inn in various capacities for twenty-two years, introduced us to Executive Chef Michael Voorhees and Pastry Chef Patrick Voorhees. Identical twins who had celebrated their thirty-first birthday the day before, the brothers have also been serving the inn in various roles for sixteen and seventeen years, respectively.
They brought us piping hot plates of Fried Calamari kissed with a roasted garlic Italian white wine sauce and a touch of long hot aioli, and house-brined JAI Wings, served with celery, carrots, and blue cheese, delightfully tangy appetizers to an evening of treats, not the least of which were the brothers themselves.
Our server, Denise Hanks, who happens to be Michael’s mother-in-law, laughed heartily as she told us, “They learned really well from their mom.” Turns out that their mother, a retired nurse whose foundation now serves wounded animals with prosthetics, and their father, a pilot, were really good cooks who always encouraged their sons’ budding culinary talents.
Patrick still enjoys making the sticky toffee bread pudding their mother always served as Christmas dessert. And like his dad, Michael’s favorite entry on the inn’s fine menu is Steak Frites, a 12-ounce Prime New York Strip, served with house-made frites in a robust chimichurri compound butter—a hearty entrée that my wife still raves about days later.
Just for the record, these twins, inseparable friends since childhood, work closely together in the kitchen. Blessed with what Michael calls “a natural telepathy,” they’re brutally honest with each other’s creations, refining them until they reach their own measure of perfection.
Michael says, “Each dish has its own story. At the inn, there’s a certain nostalgia for some dishes, but we always respect the ingredients, even as we challenge ourselves to make small changes that elevate it to a new taste experience.” Patrick says, with a laugh, that he always hated calamari, never understanding its popularity—until he tasted Michael’s take on it. The brothers’ mantra seems to be “When we feel too comfortable, we’re uncomfortable and innovate.”
Case in point: my entrée—Pan Seared Scallops, served in a brown butter cauliflower purée with honey-glazed carrots and topped with some nutty shavings of Romano cheese. Out of this world!
And you must leave room for dessert—although Patrick treated us to enough samples to last for several meals, among them: Oreo Cheesecake; Butter Cake; Creme Brûlée topped with pretzel bark; Pineapple Upside Down Cake served with vanilla ice cream; and Banana Foster Cinnamon Roll, topped with Banana Foster sauce and pastry cream. A divine dessert tray—especially accompanied by a JAI coffee infused with hazelnut and dark de cocoa.
Oh, and don’t leave until you try the “bottoms-up” draft system in JPub, the only place in the area serving beer in such an innovative, fun way.
The history of Joseph Ambler Inn (check out its website) is well-known. Stretching back to land purchased from William Penn in 1682, its many buildings have served as farmhouse, tenant farmer’s cottage, schoolroom, bed & breakfast (under revered longtime owner and “gentleman farmer” Richard Allman), country inn, and full-time restaurant and destination for all manner of events, weddings, and celebrations. It’s been a popular mainstay in the community, evolving beautifully and naturally through the years, and now writing a new chapter under the inspired leadership of Director of Operations Joe McClain and the culinary legerdemain of the two talented twins, Michael and Patrick Voorhees. Don’t miss it!
Joseph Ambler Inn is located at 1005 Horsham Road, North Wales, PA; 215-362-7500; www.josephamblerinn.com. Restaurant open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., and dinner, 4:30–9:30 p.m. JPub open 3:30–11 p.m. Both closed on Monday. Grab & Go Breakfast for hotel guests only, 7–10 a.m., and buffet Saturday & Sunday, 8–9:30 a.m. Reservations recommended. Available for weddings, business meetings, social gatherings of every kind. Call 215-362-7500 for more information.