King George II Inn

by Bob & Sue Gordon

They're back. Owners Mary and Len Demenczuk were enjoying a sunny, carefree retirement out west. Or so they thought–until “their baby” back in Bristol hit hard times. Way back in 1979 the Demenczuks purchased King George II Inn. They nurtured and grew the business for two and half decades before selling it, confident and secure that its run as a respected, viable establishment would continue unabated. Sadly, it didn’t. It declined drastically. “We had to come back and fix things,” Mary Demenczuk resolved.

So it’s once more into the breech for the Demenczuks. They're plunging their hearts and souls anew into this all-consuming métier. And, as veterans in the trade, they're making the right moves. They have hired chef Kevin Herbe, a young talent who hails from western Pennsylvania. After toiling in a number of Delaware Valley establishments, Kevin landed at the Yardley Inn, where he fell under the tutelage and influence of Executive Chef Eben Coppley. Kevin embraced the farm-to-table cuisine that Eben advocates passionately. At the King George II, Kevin’s newfound focus on fresh ingredients has compelled him to develop seasonal menus that echo the harvest of each particular season. That’s a new dynamic for the eatery—one that ups its pedigree substantially.

You’ll find nothing outrageous or exploratory on the King George II menu, but the inn’s traditional fare comes out feeling fresh and updated. The menu is best characterized as American contemporary, with ethnic licks employed here and there for accents. Excellent Wild Mushroom ravioli upholds its Tuscan roots with a liberal sprinkling of pine nuts. Polish pierogies pop up on both the regular menu and the bar menu, while English Fish ‘n Chips anchor the Lite Fare section. Home-style Meat Loaf injects the menu with down-home Americana, as do the southern-inspired mashed yams that accompany the Smoked Pork Tenderloin. Ditto for the creamy mac ’n cheese that sides Pan-Seared Chicken Breast. To be sure, the menu’s principle strength resides in the surprisingly snappy combinations and accompaniments that perk so many different dishes.

Although the menu is not designed for small-plate grazing, the appetizers offer enough interesting dishes to make a tasty meal of tapas. The well-seasoned, filler-free Crab Cakes are presented with a mound of Napa slaw dressed with rice vinegar. A floe of homemade tartar sauce boosts the interplay of crunchy slaw and soft, flaky crabmeat. Wild Mushroom Raviolis pairs sautéed spinach with notably tender, house-made free-form ravioli. But the earthy broth that pools the plate – a smooth reduction of mushroom jus mixed with heavy cream, sherry, and butter–is the bomb. The raviolis are stuffed with lush mushroom duxelles, underpinned with shallots and thyme. Sheets of shaved Parmesan feather across the top and add another echelon of taste and complexity to a coherent dish.

The entrée menu splits evenly between sea and land choices. Chef Herbe favors pan searing as a preparation for many dishes, offering pan-seared salmon, sea scallops, and chicken breast. The excellent  Pan-Seared Scallops dish contains a half-dozen plump scallops fanned along an elongated white plate accompanied by shaved fennel, sautéed in butter and wine with bits of celery and bright strips of red pepper. The veggie combo drapes over and around the scallops adding eye-glam and crunch; a silky white bean purée lavished across the plate lends a delicious garlic undertone. On the meaty side of the menu, Braised Short Ribs is a busy, colorful, somewhat playful orchestration. Short-rib drippings anchor superb brown gravy juiced with wine, tomatoes and brown sugar for a subtle, dulcet flavor. The pool of gravy plays well with sublimely textured polenta that’s jacked with truffle oil. A bright orange avalanche of spiced carrots climbs along the side of the serving bowl. Slow-cooked to perfection, the short ribs reveal no hint of strands or toughness. The pièce de résistance–a multi-colored tumble of gremolata made of horseradish, garlic and parsley adds pungency and punch to the almost regal taste of the meat. The dish is quite possibly the best treatment of braised short ribs I’ve ever had.

The King George II claims to be America’s oldest operating inn. I've always found the creak and character of the vintage building charming and somewhat charismatic. The downstairs dining rooms are homey and historic. The barroom is as true a replica of an historic upscale pub in Britain as I've seen on our shores. But the best seats in the house may be on the second floor enclosed porch where every table is situated next to a large picture window that affords a lovely unfettered view across the riverfront park and the wide expanse of the Delaware River.

Strangely enough, the Inn took on its British aspect after a Frenchman named Charles Besonett purchased the inn from its original owner Samuel Clift. Besonett did so in1735, during the reign of George II, the predecessor of Mad George III–the guy who hassled the colonists into rebellion. You can’t say the Frenchman didn’t know which way the wind was blowing in the New World. Legend has it that when George Washington and his Continental troops approached Bristol, the image of King George II outside the Inn was hastily painted over with a likeness of George Washington.

In the 19th century, Bristol and the Fountain House, as it was renamed after the Revolution, was an elite destination as a summer resort and spa. Presidents Washington, Tyler, John Adams, Madison, and Fillmore were among the dignitaries who stayed here. That’s a litany few places can match. 

In its 21st century renaissance, the Inn assumes its role as crown jewel of the Radcliffe Street restoration zone. The King George II enjoys a huge pre- and post-theater business, accommodating the throngs at Bristol Riverside Theater, which is an underappreciated gem that draws world-class talent at prices that don’t cause sticker shock.

The Inn is offering Monday BYOB nights; Tuesday night 50-cent wing nights, and Wednesday $16 “All You Can Eat PEI Mussels Nights.” There’s plenty of free parking in the vast municipal parking lot in the back. And speaking of back, it’s good to see the King George II back.

The King George II Inn is located at 102 Radcliffe Street, Bristol, PA; 215-788-5536; www.kginn.com. Open 11 a.m.–9p.m. Sun.—Thurs. 11a.m.–11p.m. Fri. and Sat.; Monday BYOB; Accepts major credit cards. Reservations accepted.