Hattery
Sue Gordon
I don't know about you, but to me 1990 doesn't seem all that long ago–until I pause and do the math. Or until I read comments like these which appeared in the March 4, 1990 Philadelphia Inquirer as the Doylestown Inn closed for renovations: “The old, ragged heart of Bucks County's principal town is silent, sedated, deep in surgery…On Sunday mornings, it had been the one unsanctified place in town where many people gathered, though breakfasts were often crammed with cholesterol…On summer evenings in the last few years, it had been the one place in town where folks could sit outside, drinking and chatting along the narrow one-way street, the principal east-to-west road through town.”
Seriously? The one place? That's hard to imagine today when a stroll through the center of Doylestown takes you past dozens of trendy restaurants and bars. But, the Inquirer reporter was right about one thing: between 1990-2014, the Doylestown Inn was sedated. Despite stylish room renovations and multiple owners, the Inn never regained its former status as the town's gathering spot, because it never had a full service bar and restaurant. But by 2013, new owners, attorney Ron Isgate and realtor Todd McCarty, were plotting stir things up, and I'm here to tell you, they have succeeded in grand fashion.
A little over a year ago—May, 2014 to be precise—a new upscale bar and restaurant, The Hattery Stove and Still, debuted inside the Doylestown Inn. Named for one of the earliest business operated out of this location, The Hattery is a stand-out among Bucks County eateries in terms of its “antique industrial” décor, as described by its designers, Daryl and Shannon Rost of Rost Artisan Builders. The street level restaurant/bar glows as two-dozen crystal chandeliers bounce their light off a collection of antique mirrors hung on the exposed brick walls. The bar is constructed from antique beverage boxes and topped with stainless steel, reminiscent of the old time Parisian “zincs.” On the lower level, a second bar is tricked out to resemble a '36 Oldsmobile, and high top banquettes, exposed beams and deep mysterious colors harken back to the era when the Doylestown Inn was a reputed speakeasy. On a recent Saturday night, the joint was jumpin' with a lively crowd of drinkers and diners on both levels. A second visit on a Monday evening one week later was more subdued, but no less enjoyable.
Of course, stylish, creative décor can help to set the mood for a fantastic meal. But nobody eats the ambience. The food has to measure up or people will sample and move on. And that's what I did after my first meal at The Hattery, shortly after it opened a year ago. That first dinner was adequate, but not memorable, and although I chalked that up to growing pains, it took me awhile to make a return visit. What a difference a year makes. There is a new chef, William a.k.a. “Billy” Gilbo in the kitchen, a new swagger to the menu and definitely the sense that The Hattery is not just a popular bar, but also a serious restaurant serving well-conceived gastro-pub fare: tasty and filling but prepared with finesse.
The Starter list doubles as small plates, so it is easy to build a meal with yummy choices like Spicy Mussels with chorizo sausage in an herb and garlic scented broth (on the printed menu) or Seared Scallops with braised pork belly and spicy watermelon (a recent menu addition.) The Hattery's Wings come with Roasted Garlic Gorgonzola Pepper Sauce and if you are a fan of Braised Pork Belly, you will definitely relish the kitchen's Asian-fusion version with a citrus-soy glaze. In my opinion, the twice-cooked (slow-simmered than grilled) Octopus Confit, is a menu highlight. Melt in your mouth tender, served warm on a bed of arugula with green olives, grape tomatoes and shaved fennel, this Spanish-influenced dish with a light orange vinaigrette will having you dreaming of tapas in Barcelona.
Moving on to the sandwich board, there are pub-sized burgers made with Kobe grade beef or Ahi Tuna, and an over-the-top stack of boneless Chicken thighs served on a Brioche Bun with cheddar cheese, bacon, and sriracha aioli all topped with a fried egg. But, the most popular item on the menu are the Shrimp Tacos, soft corn shells stuffed with a rainbow of tastes and textures including smoky Chipotle marinated shrimp, black bean puree, and crunchy Asian slaw, then topped with slices of creamy avocado and sweet mango salsa.
If you're in the mood for something more substantial, The Hattery kitchen serves a small by well-conceived slate of entrées and seasonal specials that highlight Chef Bilbo's competence with seasonings and textures. Twin Crab Cakes are complimented with roasted fingerling potatoes, sautéed broccolini and a piquant tomato horseradish cream. A juicy grilled Rib Eye enriched with a Sage-shallot demi-glace is sided with a velvety purée of Yukon Gold potatoes, and soft creamed spinach. A recent special of Seared Scallops with braised pork belly and spicy watermelon offered a delicious and unusual mélange of flavors. I especially enjoyed my Grilled Tuna entrée served, as requested, very rare, but exceedingly tender, a tribute to chef and the quality of the fish. Fresh grilled asparagus and a lively tomato-mustard salsa completed this rich and savory dish.
The Hattery also offers intriguing cocktails, more than a dozen rotating beers on tap and a well conceived, although slightly overpriced wine list. And yes, there are desserts … made in-house and sized to share. We choose the Apple Tartin, a large square of buttery pastry loaded with cinnamon flavored apple slices and served with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce: a sweet ending to a satisfying meal.
The Hattery Stove and Still is located in the Doylestown Inn at 18 W. State Street, Doylestown; 215-345-1527; www.hatteryrestaurant.com. Open daily, 8 a.m-2 a.m. Happy Hour 4-6 p.m. Reservations.