Frank Quattrone
The name is decidedly regal. It fits the restaurant well. Imperatore, translated from the Italian, means emperor. The restaurant’s vaunted Caesar Salad is a crown of homemade crostini filled with Romaine lettuce and dressed with homemade Caesar and Reggiano and Parmesan, the latter considered “the king of Italian cheeses.” And that’s just for starters.
The latest creation of Chef-owner Adel Khemiri, a proud Tunisian who has served the industry faithfully for nearly a quarter century, Ristorante Imperatore has attracted a loyal following since its opening in 2017. Not hard to understand why. For all its regal trappings and high professionalism in the kitchen and dining rooms, this Ambler mainstay remains a warm, down-to-earth destination for families, couples, and friends who simply savor great Italian food.
And why Italian? After all, Chef Adel, like many Italian restaurateurs in the area, was born in Tunisia. For those who’ve forgotten their ancient history, Tunisia was the site of Carthage, an affluent civilization in northern Africa that became one of the most important trading hubs in the Mediterranean and a worthy rival of Rome during the Punic Wars and beyond in the early years of the first millennium.
Chef Adel reminds us that “our histories are intertwined. Even today, Tunisia produces much of Italy’s fine food. It’s a natural connection. I love Italy. I’ve been there many times. Do you know that Rome is less than an hour’s flight from Tunis?” That’s roughly the distance, by air, from Philadelphia to Baltimore or the Nation’s Capital. And it’s only scant nautical miles from the island of Sicily.
On a recent trip to Italy, Chef Adel tasted a wonderful Roman specialty that he’s adapted for Imperatore, a dish you won’t find in too many other Italian restaurants. Pappardelle Coda di Bue is a homemade wide pasta graced with slow-cooked oxtail ragù. We tried it during our most recent visit and were absolutely sold on its originality and piquant taste.
And “homemade on the premises” is the key at Ristorante Imperatore—from the dressings and sauces to the pastas, which is clearly a labor of love for Chef Adel, who believes in keeping it fresh, and shops for produce himself virtually every day.
During our last visit, Eve and I were greeted by the courtly Luis Hernandez, who recited a host of tantalizing menu specials from memory and with great relish. He told us that all the servers, including the ever-genial Nancy Cullum, many of whom have worked with Chef Adel at his previous kitchens in Montgomery County and elsewhere, do the same and feel the same. The chef later confirmed that most of these specials are available on any given night, as his guests enjoy them so much.
The two we chose as appetizers—Burrata, a rich shell of Mozzarella wrapped around a mixture of cheese curds and topped with roasted red pepper and a balsamic glaze, and Artichokes Romano, whole artichokes marinated and grilled and served with a garlic aioli—easily whetted our appetite for more of the chef’s inspired fare.
We also shared three entrées. In addition to the Pappardelle Coda di Bue, we ordered two of the regular menu items—Vitello Imperatori, veal medallions sautéed with crispy-tender asparagus, crab meat, and fresh herbs, served in a white wine sauce and topped with melted mozzarella; and Sacchetti Formaggi e Pere (also known as “Beggar’s Purse”), pasta parcels stuffed with pear, ricotta, and Parmesan, topped with a rich cream sauce—all three among the most enjoyable Italian dishes we’ve had in years.
As generous as our portions were, we still had room to enjoy a surprisingly fluffy Pistachio Ricotta Cheesecake for dessert, with a demitasse of espresso—a perfect finish to a great meal. Again, we were not surprised, as we’ve enjoyed Chef Adel’s culinary magic from the time he opened his first charming neighborhood ristorante, Venezia, in Hatboro in 2003, to the present.
He says he began cooking during his college days in southern Tunisia (“to have good things to eat”) and learned much of his craft by experimenting, ultimately refining his technique at the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College in Philadelphia. “It can be exhausting,” he says, “but it’s a job I’ve always loved. I befriend many of the people I meet and serve and love to see them go home happy and come back again.”
A committed family man, Chef Adel has always found time for his lovely wife Melek and their two children—Fares, 12, and Malak, 7—who have enjoyed coming to the restaurant since day one. Just as he cares for his family and his guests, you’ll soon learn that he pours his heart into every dish
The menu at Ristorante Imperatore is a revelation and a delight. Even more so are the chef-owner and his devoted staff. Don’t miss it!
Ristorante Imperatore is located at 36 West Skippack Pike, Ambler, PA 19002; 215-646-8500; https://ristoranteimperatore.com. Open Tuesday to Thursday & Sunday, 3:30 to 9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 3:30 to 10 p.m.; closed Monday. BYOB. Lunch returns in September. Reservations recommended; walk-ins always welcome. Available for banquets, private parties, and takeout. Wine lockers available for regular guests.