Warterwheel
by Frank Quattrone
Originally built by English Quaker John Dyer in 1714 as a wheel-driven grist mill, Doylestown’s landmark Water Wheel Tavern has recently reopened to the latest page in its storied history. Closed for two years for massive renovations under new owner Bill Haas, the rejuvenated restaurant has also served the public well for more than 300 years as a post office, general store and, with the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, as a tavern, inn, and full-service restaurant.
According to congenial General Manager Chris Keely, the Water Wheel’s old shell remains intact. In fact, part of the original grist mill still exists (although not open to the public), along with some sturdy walls, window frames and wooden beams that have withstood the test of time, including a fire, years back, that threatened the whole structure. Keely says that the kitchen and rest rooms are brand-new.
Combining elements of a Colonial-era tavern, like a working stone fireplace and exposed wooden beams, with all the amenities a modern-day patron could desire, like big-screen TVs and a state-of-the-art wraparound bar fully stocked with 16 draft taps and more than 30 craft beers, the Water Wheel has quickly (since unshuttering last March) re-established itself as a community hub. A packed parking lot on a Monday night was surely a welcome sign. The tavern’s Happy Hour weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m. is already a big draw, and anyone desiring a good meal any day of the week will not be disappointed.
Executive Chef Luis Olmeda, who manned several kitchens at Peddler’s Village (including the Cock ’n Bull) for seven years, describes the Water Wheel’s menu as “upscale tavern-style, at a higher level.” He says he’s fashioned a menu that embraces “comfort food with great taste and great appearance that has the ‘wow’ factor.” Even so, the menu contains several marked gluten-free items. Olmeda assures guests that he and his sous chef are well-trained in food allergies and are willing to accommodate any customer’s dietary requirements and preferences.
The menu is filled with Olmeda’s distinctive spin on familiar favorites. For our appetizers, we tried the chef’s cornmeal-dusted Calamari. Remarkably tender, it was distinguished by a cherry pepper zing.
We also enjoyed a satisfyingMargherita Flatbread, topped with fresh mozzarella, sliced beefsteak tomatoes, and sweet basil with a light balsamic glaze. But our favorite was the Crab Cake Sliders. Graced by Maryland-style Crab Imperial with lettuce and tomatoes, the sliders popped on our palates with a pleasingly spicy remoulade.
Other appetizers we’ve filed away for future visits include the Water Wheel’s signature French Onion Soup, laced with provolone and Swiss cheese and fortified with stout; Southwest Egg Roll, stuffed with blackened diced chicken, cheddar jack, and roasted corn; the signature Arugula Salad, laced with orange and grapefruit segments, dried cranberries, diced tomatoes, and crumbled smoked blue cheese in a lemon Parmesan dressing; and Fish Tacos, made with grilled tilapia, flour tortilla, and corn and poblano salsa, dressed with spicy aioli.
Although we didn’t try one, we understand that the Water Wheel’s burgers are something else. Chef Olmeda says that the meat, ground on the premises, is a special blend of ground chuck, short rib, and brisket. Popular selections are the Bacon Blue Burger, flavored with Applewood smoked bacon and crumbled smoked blue cheese, and the blackened Cajun Burger, dressed with fried okra, cheddar, and Cajun aioli. Guests are also invited to build their own — beef, turkey, or garden burger, with a combination of avocado, mushrooms, fried onions, jalapeno peppers; American, Swiss, provolone, cheddar, goat, or smoked blue cheese; and bacon, pork roll, or fried egg.
For our entrées, I really enjoyed the Grilled Atlantic Salmon with its lightly toasted hazelnut crust, served with creamy polenta and haricot verts and kissed with a raspberry glaze, while Eve feasted on the chef’s favorite menu item — tender Braised Short Rib brushed with a demi-glaze and served with roasted garlic mash and a colorful vegetable medley. Other enticing menu items were the Pan Seared Scallops, served with tomato basil polenta, haricot verts, and Kalamata tapenade, and the evening’s specials: Crab Imperial Flounder brushed with browned butter cream and served with saffron rice and haricot verts, and Mesquite Grilled Hanger Steak, served with corn on the cob and a baked potato.
G.M. Chris Keely, who opened the kitchen at Warrington’s Pizzeria Uno, earned his degree in hospitality management at Widener University. An avid hunter and fisherman, he loves the restaurant’s casual menu, its comfortable ambiance, and its recently completed Millstone Cellar Bar, which is open on Friday and Saturday evenings for drinks and dining. And for someone whose Irish ancestors came to the colonies during the American Revolution and fought in the Battle of Germantown, he is very proud of the tavern’s history and recent renaissance. Anyone who visits this community hub will have no trouble understanding why.
Water Wheel Tavern is located at 4424 Old Easton Road, Doylestown, PA 18902; 215-348-8300; www.waterwheeltavern.com. Open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m –10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m –11 p.m. Happy Hour: Monday – Friday, 4 – 6 p.m. Live music Friday and Saturday, 7–11 p.m.