By Frank D. Quattrone
Founded in the 1870s, the Wycombe Tavern & Grille, after roughly a year of renovations, has soared back to life. Located in the center of the so-called “Bucks Triangle” of Doylestown, Newtown, and New Hope, this historic restaurant is quickly becoming a destination for those who enjoy exceptional homemade dining at a most reasonable price.
New owners Dean Diaz-Albertini and his parents, Therese and Gary-Diaz Albertini, are no strangers to the restaurant scene. Natives of Cuba and proud owners of the two Casa Toro Mexican Restaurants (in Coopersburg, Lehigh County, and in Doylestown), they have lavished the Wycombe Tavern with some modern rustic touches—classic woods, tin ceilings, and a sparkling new lounge on the second floor, with an attractive new bar beautifully handcrafted by Dean himself.
But the lure of the reborn Wycombe Tavern is less in its ambience (which is no less a magnet in itself) but in its menu and service. Dean Diaz-Albertini, a humble as well as talented young man, has had the good fortune to hire his brother-in-law, Kurt Saracini, as executive chef. Having grown up in Ventura, California, as well as Bucks County and Philadelphia, the self-taught chef has learned from the best, having served fruitfully in the kitchens of Stephen Starr, as well as Fishtown’s Pizza Shackamaxon and Marc Vetri’s Osteria.
Eternally grateful for lessons learned from the best, Chef Kurt also credits his mother, Kimberly Saracini, as “a fantastic cook who made everything from scratch for me and my four siblings.” His father, Carlo, a Calabrese Italian by birth, also inspired their son’s early love for Italian cooking. Like my dear departed nonna (and, of course, his own mom), the chef eschews recipes, preferring to create his own dishes by taste alone, cutting no corners, and pouring his lifelong love for great food into his menu.
But a quick perusal of the Wycombe menu reveals a most eclectic vision. Consider these offerings: Greek Freak Salad (with feta and kalamata olives); French Onion Soup; Maui Wowie Pizza (featuring pork roll and pineapple, a Hawaiian touch); spicy Thai Chili Shrimp Tacos; Quesadilla Toro and Cubano (a terrific Cuban handheld with Mojo pork, tavern ham, gruyere, and pickles served on pressed Cuban bread); Mill Creek Egg Rolls; Prince Edward Island Mussels; and Fish & Chips (a touch of merry old England), and homemade Pierogies—and you have a totally satisfying international menu.
When asked about the rich variety of his menu, the chef simply said, “I just want to make food that people enjoy. It doesn’t matter if it’s Italian, Mexican, or any other. I just love cooking, making everything from scratch, including mozzarella sticks, chicken cutlets, pierogies, and gelato.” Even his rich assortment of tattoos—including a Pizza Margherita, an animated Disney chef, and the four letters in the word L-O-V-E, all speak to the passion he lavishes on his craft.
The afternoon of our visit, just before the historic snow-and-sleet storm last January, Eve and I enjoyed one of Chef Kurt’s specials of the day—warm creamy bowls of Turkey Pot Pie Soup, laden with celery, carrots, peas, corn, roasted garlic, and fresh rosemary and thyme—an exceptional treat on one of the coldest days of the year.
We followed that up with two of the chef’s personal favorite entrées. We shared the Cottage Pie, a neat variation of Shepherd’s Pie, consisting of seasoned ground beef, melded with peas, onions, carrots, and red wine, baked in a cast iron skillet and broiled with creamy mashed potatoes, topped with fresh herbs and gruyere, served with a side salad; and a wonderful taste of Italy—the Tuscan Trio, a generous plate of orecchiette (little ear-shaped pasta), crumbled sausage, broccoli rabe, roasted red peppers, garlic, and Parmesan, in a subtle white wine sauce.
An amazing meal—and that includes the special Margherita Pizza, topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh basil, that Chef Kurt made himself for us to enjoy at home the next day!
Adding immeasurably to the vibrant tone of Wycombe Tavern is the warm and engaging presence of General Manager Eric Cutting, a veteran of legendary Chef Tell’s restaurants, who brings a heartfelt passion for the dining experience to everyone who enters. His mantra is simple but pointed: “We treat all our visitors as guests, not customers.” Which might explain why the restaurant and tavern has already built up an impressive cadre of loyal regulars since reopening last May. An avid wine lover who is working toward his certification as a sommelier, Eric recommended an excellent La Jolie Fleur rosé to complement my meal, along with a perfect Bloody Mary for Eve.
Guests can trust Eric’s recommendations and taste. It’s all part of the plan, as the Diaz-Albertinis, the executive chef, and the general manager and their staffs work hard to make the Wycombe “the best tavern and restaurant in Bucks County.”
Wycombe Tavern & Grille is located at 1073 Mill Creek Road in Wycombe, PA; 215-827-0177; https://wycombetavern.com. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday–Thursday, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; and Sunday, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Closed Monday. Check website for desserts. Extensive array of cocktails, wines, and rotating craft beers. Brunch coming soon! Reservations recommended. Available for private parties.