Erini
Here’s one of our cardinal rules for dining out: it’s much better to be delighted by an unexpectedly great meal than simply satisfied by one you know will be good. In that spirit, I can definitely say that we were delighted by our dining experience at Erini. As first time diners at the rambling Mediterranean outpost perched on a sloping hillside above the meandering Delaware River, we expected a fine meal. We’d read the reviews on the requisite websites and had gotten two thumbs up from some trustworthy friends. However, the meal that we enjoyed still exceeded our expectations in virtually every category.
To understand why Erini sparkles, all you need to do is talk to the hands-on C.I.A. trained chef/owners Chris and Nick Fifus–a father and son team who opened Erini after years of experience in some of the region’s premiere kitchens. While executive chef Nick works his magic in the kitchen, Chris lends his experience to the front of the house, and Nick’s wife keeps things pouring smoothly in the bar. The goal of this energetic restaurant family isn’t simply to serve great food, but to excel in every aspect of the dining experience. They will tell you that every meal—even the simplest ones—can be extraordinary when you concentrate on the basics: seasonal ingredients, artful presentation, a comfortable setting and polished, professional service.
The restaurant is named after Chris’s mom and Nick’s grandmother, Erini, who shared her love of cooking and the flavors of her Greek heritage with her extended family. The fragrant herbs, delicate fish and tangy cheeses of the Mediterranean form the basis for the restaurant’s menu today. But Chef Nick doesn’t stop there. He melds the favors of his childhood with the wider range of ingredients available in today’s American pantry to create a cuisine that’s both intriguing and satisfying
The first dish we sampled was Sizzling Chili Shrimp sautéed in white wine with roasted tomatoes, garlic and tiny Thai chilies, which gave the sauce a lively bite. The heat with nicely tempered by a generous crumble of creamy feta and a drizzle of sweet balsamic reduction. The sauce that remained once the shrimp were gone simply begged to be sopped up with crusty Italian bread.
Paper-thin strips of Citrus Cured Salmon were prepared ceviche-style and slathered with a mixture of fresh goat cheese and cream cheese and sprinkled with fresh dill. Served rolled on a bed of greens, they resembled soft pink blossoms and virtually melted in the mouth.
While Erini’s starter list features a traditional Meze platter (the Greek version of antipasti) with stuffed grape leaves, roasted peppers, olives and feta, seafood dishes predominate. From seared sesame crusted tuna with wasabi dipping sauce to flaky lobster spring rolls, to oysters stuffed with lump crab meat and served with grated parmesan, lemon and Tabasco cocktail sauce, the seasonings range far and wide beyond the Greek Isles, but never stray from luscious.
Seafood reigns supreme on the entrée menu as well. For those cautious diners who still cherish their meat and potatoes, there are elegant offerings of grilled filet mignon or Black Angus sirloin, even Blackened Breast of Chicken which looked spectacular as they were whisked by us to other tables. But, in my opinion, a great chef shines brightest when preparing seafood; perhaps its because there is a wider range of tastes under the sea; perhaps its because the delicate textures and flavors of fish naturally lend themselves to more creative preparations. And the fish we tasted at Erini—a succulent Sea Bass with Caramelized Miso Glaze definitely confirmed my belief. Encased in a delicate golden crust, the double-sized fillet was plated with garlic mashed potatoes and French beans. Simply wonderful. A second selection of Pan Roasted Salmon lavished with a honey Dijon sauce fragrant with tarragon, and sided with roasted red skinned potatoes and French beans was equally excellent.
Although the quality and size of the meals at Erini leave little room for dessert, I urge you to treat yourself because, if you’re lucky, your sweet may just come with one of Nick’s special garnishes … little flowers, tiny birds and swirls of what appears to be spun glass but which are, in fact, made of pulled sugar. Nick is a master of this exacting and beautiful art that allows him to create edible sculptures to the delight of his guests—no matter what their ages. Even without the frills, the desserts are worth the extra calories. Some, like the Apple Macadamia Nut Cake, are old family recipes. Others like the dense carrot cake or the fabulous cheesecakes, come from Ponzio’s Diner and Bakery in Cherry Hill, NJ, home turf for the Fifis restaurant family.
To summarize: food at Erini … superb; service … polished, professional and extra-friendly; atmosphere … comfortable, elegant and unpretentious. We encourage you to make the trek across the Washington Crossing Bridge and enjoy a Mediterranean feast on the “left bank” of the Delaware.
Erini is located at 1140 River Road (Rt. 29) Ewing, NJ; 609-882-0303. www.erinirestau rant.com. Lunch, Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–4p.m. Dinner Mon.–Thurs. 4–10 p.m. Fri.–Sat. 4–11p.m. Closed Sunday. All major credit cards accepted. Reservations suggested.