Waterwheel
by Sue Gordon
Doylestown 1722. You are there … well, not exactly. But when you walk through the doorway of the Waterwheel Restaurant in Doylestown, you can't help but wonder what John Dwyer, the hardworking English colonist who erected the structure almost 300 years ago would think of his mill today. How could he possibly envision that the grain mill where he toiled would later become a warm and welcoming retreat from the stress of modern life; a comfortable gathering spot for friends and a quasi-museum for an absorbing collection of memorabilia from the American Civil war (fought in a country that didn't even exist during Dwyer's life time)?
The mill was first restored as a restaurant/tavern in the mid-1930s, at the end of Prohibition. Current owners, Ken and Mickey Hicklin purchased the historic building in 2002; the last restaurant had closed several years before, and the couple took on the painstaking task of once again breathing life into the luminous stone walls. Today, the Waterwheel's rooms ooze history, simultaneously highlighting the passage of time and the permanence of hospitality—the innkeeper's innate drive to make guests feel at home. My husband and I have dined at the Waterwheel numerous times and have always been impressed with the quality of the food, the friendly service—spearheaded by Mickey, who runs the front of the house¬–and the value for our dining dollar. Over the years, we've enjoyed business lunches, drinks and small plates with friends in the tavern, relaxing dinners for two, Christmas parties and even a wedding. Regardless of the occasion, the dishes offered have been well conceived, consistently flavorful and generously sized.
Chef Ken knows his clientele, and he has built the Waterwheel's menu on a solid foundation of American favorites like Caesar Salad, Shrimp and Crab Cocktail, Grilled Filet Mignon and Twin Crab Cakes. But even the dishes you think you know rise above the ordinary, thanks to the chef's finesse with sauces and seasonings. And to satisfy more adventuresome diners, the chef has brightened the menu with dishes like Parmesan and Crab-Crusted Tilapia, Pan Seared Filet Tips in a Wasabi Soy Vinaigrette, and even a marvelous Blackened Portabella Mushroom dish sure to satisfy vegetarians and carnivores alike.
Our most recent outing to The Waterwheel began with Spicy Tuna Bites, a menu addition. Medallions of sushi grade Ahi tuna, bathed in a soy, garlic and ginger marinade, were pan seared (slightly more than the very rare we had requested, but still moist and pink inside) and served with a kicking wasabi seaweed salad. Definitely a dish I'd add to the daily menu. We also ordered steamed P.E.I. mussels served in a deeply flavored lemon-garlic butter broth (also available in a spicy marinara, if you prefer). In my mind, mussels are always a good test of whether the kitchen is paying attention to the freshness of the seafood being served. It's easier to mask a frozen fish filet with a rich sauce. (I've had my share of marginal salmon and tilapia.) But mussels that are not fresh…how can I say this delicately? … just stink. The Waterwheel's mussels were perfect—plump, tender, sand-free with absolutely no hint of parfum de poisson. We asked for extra bread to sop up every remaining bit of broth.
For the main course, Bob chose the Grilled Rack of Lamb with traditional French (i.e. Dijon mustard and bread crumb topping) preparation. The lamb was moist and mild served with a rich red wine demi-glace, a very tasty potato croquette, herb scented rice pilaf, matchstick carrots and crisp snow peas. Because I never miss an opportunity to encourage a restaurant to add more tasty, creative vegetarian fare, (How many restaurants think pasta primavera is as good as it gets?) I ordered the Blackened Portabella Mushroom and was definitely happy with my decision. As described, the dish featured a large portabella mushroom marinated in balsamic vinegar and olive oil and grilled to a pleasing char, but still moist and firm. It was filled to overflowing with earthy black beans flavored with pico de gallo, and sitting atop a mound of gooey, cheesy polenta flecked with jalapenos. The entire dish was drizzled with a wasabi sour cream sauce. The contrast of tastes and textures was simply wonderful, and quite filling (not sure it really needs the side of rice, although that matched nicely with the beans). I barely managed to polish off half before I asked for the "To Go" container, and thoroughly enjoyed the remaining portion for lunch the following day.
If you are looking for a place to gather with friends after work, the Waterwheel hosts Happy Hour Tuesday through Friday from 4-6pm in the Tavern and the Cellar Bar. The house drinks are half price and so are all items on the tasty bar menu. My favorites include the sweet potato fries tossed in malt vinegar and sprinkled with brown sugar, a nice hummus platter with an assortment of flat breads and the blue cheese grapes coated with toasted almonds. Yum. I'm not a wing girl, but friends of mine report that it's worth the trip to Doylestown just to sample the boneless wings with chipotle barbeque sauce.
On a final note: the Waterwheel serves one of the finest Sunday brunches around. The Sunday Grand Brunch Buffet, a perennial winner of the "Best of Bucks Award," is served from 10 a.m.-1:30 p.m. (Adults¬–$25.00/person; Children, ages 3-10, just $12.50/person). Reservations highly recommended.
The Waterwheel Restaurant is located at 4424 Old Easton Road, Doylestown, PA; 215.345.9544; www.thewaterwheelrestau rant.com. Dinner only: Tues.–Thurs., 4:00–9:00pm; Fri.–Sat., 4:00–10:00p.m; Sunday Brunch 10:00 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Dinner 4–8 p.m.; Cellar Bar Tues.–Sat., from 4:00.p.m.. Reservations.