County Fare
by Diana Cercone
Graham Greene once said, “There’s always one moment in childhood when the door opens and lets the future in.” For Bucks County resident Gregory Conocchioli that moment came when, at the age of eight, he made his first batch of preserves with the help of his neighbors in the West Brighten section of Long Island, NY. He fell in love with the whole process, from picking apples and peaches from the trees to peeling the fruit, and from washing the mason jars to filling them and, then, sealing the jars with paraffin wax to complete the process. Of course, enjoying the “fruits” of his labor was also a huge factor in the attraction.
But it would take Gregory 55 years—and several successful careers later—to realize that making preserves was not only a passion of his but his true vocation. This he tells me as we sit at a table in the historic Carversville Christian Church, and where, in its commercial kitchen which he rents, Greg creates his preserves and marmalades.
From that first day 55 years ago, Greg says, he never stopped making preserves. He just always made them for himself and to give as presents to friends. It never occurred to him that he could carve a career out of what he loves doing best. It wasn’t until October of 2012 when his niece asked him to be her wedding planner. It was a natural request since Greg already had had a successful career as a caterer and gourmet shop owner, including having owned and run the popular Varieté shop (now closed) on Ferry Street in New Hope. However, it was her second request that sealed his fate. She asked that he make his much loved preserves as her wedding favors.
He did—producing 150 jars for the guests. And with them, he decided to turn making preserves into a full-time business. In 2013, under the name of Gregory Benjamin Artisan Preserves and Marmalades, he launched his business.
Hmmm, I should also mention that his award-wining marmalades also came about by another request. This time a good friend of his, who loves Meyer lemon marmalade, Greg says, had asked him to make some. Well, he says, there are already many fine marmalades on the market. “If you want to do what’s already been done—and do it well—that’s all very fine,” he says. “But does the world really need another lemon or orange marmalade?”
Nonetheless, Greg complied to please his friend and created one. But, for all those who know him, Greg had to put his own spin on the traditional. “I like to try unfamiliar ingredients and add to familiar concepts,” he explains. For his Scented Lemon Blueberry Marmalade, he uses a combination of blueberries, lemon and rhubarb and mixes in some cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. With its success, Greg went on to create other marmalades, including his take on an orange marmalade. For his MacGregory Benjamin’s Marmalade (which he named in honor of Beatrix Potter’s 150th birthday anniversary), he adds carrots, coconut and pineapple into his orange mix. It also won him the coveted Artisan Marmalade Silver Award in 2016.
Though he had received national recognition for his preserves before, including Cooking Light magazine in 2013 for his Strawberry Rhubarb Pie filling, and Lemon Blueberry and Apricot preserves in 2013, it was his Country Christmas Marmalade that first brought him international recognition.
It was while reading Country Life, a British magazine, a few years ago that Greg came across the call for the “best marmalade” contest, including The World’s Original Marmalade awards held in Dalemain, Cumbria, UK. The year was 2015, and one of the judges of the contest that year was Pam ‘The Jam’ Corbin, the Grande dame of marmalades. Mind you, the Brits do not take their marmalades lightly. (However, despite what many may hold to be true, the British were not the first to create marmalades, but imported them from Portugal, particularly the marmalade made with the inclusion of Seville orange peel, cut into thin strips or chips, as a luxury good in the 15th century.)
When Greg told his friends that he had decided to enter his Country Christmas Marmalade, a blend of oranges, raspberries, cranberries, pears, tea and sugar, in the contest, they tried to dissuade him from entering because he was an American. But, Greg, unflappable as always, said to them, he recalls, “‘Well someone has to win.’” A bit cheeky on his part, perhaps. Nonetheless, the Yank brought home the Artisan Marmalade Gold Award. And he has been making delectable marmalades since.
The line between preserves and marmalades is often blurred, says Greg. Simply put, there’s only one main difference. Though they both use fruit, a preserve uses whole or pieces of cooked non-citrus fruit suspended in a soft jelly or syrup. A marmalade uses chopped, pureed or slivers of citrus fruit in its syrup. Both may also contain spices, wine or spirits.
Today, Greg produces 30 different preserves and eight varieties of marmalades. Though some are produced year-round, he says, there are those only seasonally produced. This winter, along with his Country Christmas Marmalade, Greg will have Sugar Plum Conserve, an apricot-based preserve simmered with dried dates and figs, almonds, a dash of cardamom and either rum or almond extract; Sealed with a Kiss, made with dark chocolate and raspberry preserves for Valentine’s Day; Manhattan Cocktail Marmalade, made with tart and sweet cherries, and oranges steeped in Dad’s Hat rye whiskey; and Dark and Stormy Lime/Lemon Marmalade, made with limes and lemons steeped in ginger beer. Come spring, look for his Classic Dirty Martini Marmalade, a mixologist’s dream steeped in olive juice and craft vodka, and Cottontail Conserve, an ambrosial blend of carrots, coconut and pineapple simmered in either bourbon or orange extract.
The Cottontail Conserve doubles as a great glaze for holiday hams, he says. Just cook the alcohol off first, he adds. But that’s only one of the many ways to use Greg’s preserves and marmalades. Then are others, such as his Lemon Blueberry Preserves, made year-round, and a perennial favorite. It’s doesn’t only make a great P&J. It makes a lovely salad dressing as well. And it raises unsweetened tea to another level, he says. His Almond Apricot Orange Marmalade, he says, makes a delightful dipping sauce for grilled shrimp. When creating his preserves and marmalades, Greg says, he’s also thinking of other ways to use them in recipes. “I like giving added value,” he says.
And you thought marmalades and jams were only for spreading on toast.
Gregory Benjamin preserves and marmalades can be found in Altomonte’s in Doylestown as well as in other local stores. For more information and recipes, visit www.preservesandmarmalade.com or call 973-951-9433.
Diana Cercone is an area freelance writer who specializes in food, art and travel.