PAUL F WESLEY
Bowman's Tavern
By Frank Quattrone
When he purchased, updated, and breathed new life into Bowman’s Tavern ten years ago, owner James Seward vowed to “stress the integrity of the product and service to assure the return of twenty- to thirty percent of our customers.” Judging from the packed parking lot and equally filled booths and tables, I’d say that the hands-on owner, a former touring bluegrass and rock guitarist, has more than fulfilled his mission.
When Eve and I left the rustic restaurant on New Hope’s scenic River Road, we approached a middle-aged couple who had just left their car with an attendant. Thoroughly satisfied after our excellent dinner, we told the couple they were in for a real treat. “We know,” the woman said with a winning smile. “We live in New Hope and come here about three times a week and we’re never disappointed.”
Now we know why. General Manager Janara Digou greeted us warmly at the hostess stand and escorted us to our table. A veteran of the hospitality business since she was fourteen years old, Janara has served at Bowman’s for the past two years and says she could never work anywhere else. “That’s because of James [Seward], who treats us all with such respect and caring, and that makes us all want to pick each other up when needed. Everyone’s happy to do it.”
Yes. It all starts at the top. Unable to meet with us that evening because his sister restaurant, Bowman’s North in Riegelsville, needed a hand in the kitchen, the self-taught chef called me the following morning to explain, “I work for those guys, my staffs at both restaurants. Most of us have worked together for the past six/seven years.” It clearly runs both ways.
Without a menu in hand, our pleasant server, Michelle Mignogna (whose husband, Ed Jorden, is also a chef, and whose niece and two nephews also work at the tavern), lovingly introduced us to some key items we might want to enjoy. Having sampled most of the menu during her five years of service, she raved about the tavern’s natural, hormone-free, grass-fed beef burgers, the locally sourced salads, and Executive Chef Rich Christiansen’s inspired sandwiches and entrées.
Having sampled the tavern’s signature Fulper Farms Whipped Ricotta appetizer at Bowman’s North several years ago, I chose this exquisite dish again. Lavished on warm crostini, the local ricotta, graced by raw honey, extra virgin olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, burnt thyme, cracked black pepper, and sea salt, it was a taste sensation I’d easily order again. Eve’s appetizer was equally satisfying. She ordered the Steamed Mussels. Flavored with tarragon, tangy Aleppo pepper, lemon juice, and white wine, these mussels were probably the biggest and most tender we’ve ever had, and our grilled baguettes tasted heavenly soaked in the aromatic fish fumet.
Our entrées, stalwarts of land and sea, were equally flavorful. Eve chose an evening’s special, a twelve-ounce boneless Ribeye, served with garlic-chive mashed potatoes and crunchy-tender green beans, complemented by a glass of St. Huberts “The Stag,” an excellent California cabernet recommended by our server, Michelle, who also scored with my Mossback chardonnay, another fine California wine, to accompany my entrée. I ordered the chef’s special springtime offering, a generous Seafood Stew, with more of those delectable mussels, scallops, shrimp, and cod, in a white-wine seafood fumet spiced with pico de gallo accompanied by a grilled baguette. Absolutely outstanding!
Surprisingly, amid our chatting with Janara, who stopped by to check up on us, Michelle, our genial server, and another tall and rangy server, a newcomer named Jack Scurlock (here since October and clearly enjoying the tavern’s cheerful, relaxed atmosphere), we still had room for dessert. Made in house, the desserts we enjoyed (again on target, suggested by Michelle) were a Warm Brownie and a lovely Cheesecake topped with cherry compote, with whipped cream on the side.
Chef Christiansen, a Los Angelino by birth who took over the kitchen last summer, has clearly given the kitchen a boost of West Coast energy and innovation. His passion for cooking kicked off at his father’s Italian restaurant in L.A. Eventually he worked at a fine dining seafood restaurant in New Jersey before landing a plum post as sous chef at the world-famous Etta’s in Seattle’s Pike Place Market. But when the opportunity to become an executive chef at a restaurant that shared his own family values and commitment to serve fine locally sourced products in a comfortable atmosphere, he didn’t hesitate—and Bowman’s Tavern and its steady stream of loyal guests have been the beneficiaries.
Covid may have slowed or closed down many restaurants. But Bowman’s has thrived because of what James Seward has described as “its total family dynamic, its broad demographic,” its intricate balance of casual and fine dining, and the warm and genuine service of a devoted staff. Along with Bowman’s North in nearby Riegelsville, Seward has created two of Bucks County’s finest and most welcoming dining havens.
Bowman’s Tavern is located at 1600 River Road, New Hope, PA; 215-862-2972; https://bowmanstavernrestaurant.com. Open Wednesday–Sunday, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Full-service bar. Live music every night.