bowman
by Frank Quattrone
It’s worth the scenic drive northward along Route 611, about thirty minutes past Doylestown, just to experience the quirky charm of Bowman’s North. Located in the tiny borough of Riegelsville, the sister restaurant to Bowman’s Tavern in New Hope is a five-star restaurant without the frills. After you read my story, you can quote me on that.
When we arrived for lunch on a balmy Saturday afternoon in May, we didn’t know what to expect. In the parking lot were motorcycles next to Mercedes-Benzes and spacious station wagons. As we entered, a burly bearded man seated at the bar (probably one of the bikers) greeted us warmly and immediately recommended the homemade black garlic hummus, a vegetarian dish he was obviously enjoying.
We thanked him and made our way into the dining area to meet General Manager Christopher Linson. We noted the appealingly rough-hewn outpost vibe permeating the place, along with the sprawling fireplace bounded by cozy sofas and tables along the walls. The genial G.M. said hi to some regular guests, then came over and told us that the interior of the newly renovated restaurant (it’s been open less than two years) is constructed mostly of reclaimed wood from Pennsylvania barns.
Chris suggested that we chat outside on the patio, as the weather was especially nice that day. Despite the hum and whoosh of traffic behind the newly constructed fence, we were glad to be outdoors. Chris, who joined the staff in July 2016, explained to us that the site, originally a gas station, has served the community as a bar or restaurant (including, most recently, the Riegelsville Tavern) since the 1920s. But this latest iteration turned out to be much more impressive than we’d bargained for. It starts with the staff and ends with an especially inventive and flavorful menu.
Owner James Seward, whom I understand plays a mean guitar when he’s not overseeing Bowman’s Tavern, is a self-taught chef who chose Chris Linson because of his extensive restaurant pedigree. A native of Doylestown, Chris started in the business at age 13, washing dishes at the acclaimed Inn of the Sorrel Horse. Since then he has become an experienced chef, serving at Earl’s Prime in Peddler’s Village, opening The Hattery at Doylestown Inn, and working as sous chef at the Water Wheel.
With input from the owner and general manager, Executive Chef Fred Moffit, a passionate foodie and graduate of the Vermont Culinary Institute who has worked in restaurants from Charlotte, North Carolina, to Boise, Idaho, has fashioned an exceptional seasonal menu, mostly locally sourced, which they describe modestly as “quality cuisine, with quality ingredients turning into something fresh and delicious.”
For starters, Eve and I tried the tender Cornmeal Fried Calamari with roasted garlic aioli and pepper relish, among the best we’ve ever had; crisp Fried Green Tomatoes, served with a tarragon aioli and topped with an unexpectedly delightful lump crab salad; and perhaps our favorite dish of the afternoon, something we’ve never seen on any other menu — Whipped Ricotta, topped with local raw honey, aged balsamic, extra virgin olive oil, a pinch of thyme, and some grey sea salt, an outstanding taste sensation served on a grilled baguette.
Equally amazing was the refreshing Baby Arugula Salad that followed, topped with toasted pistachios, goat cheese, the sweetest blackberries I’ve ever tasted, in a thyme and honey vinaigrette. It gets better. For our main course, Eve chose the grass-fed Steakhouse Burger, served with crispy onions, cheddar cheese, tomato, and house-made barbecue sauce with french fries so good that Eve said, “These are the only fries I’ve eaten that don’t need ketchup.”
In the mood for seafood, I wisely chose a house specialty, Pan-seared Shrimp and Scallops. First off, these were the best scallops I’ve tasted in years, succulent and tender, served with roasted oyster mushrooms, prosciutto chips that put bacon to shame, and a spring pea risotto whose peapods are shelled by hand to maximize flavor. Simply outstanding!
Happy and full, we’d have to try the chef’s homemade desserts, which include Warm Chocolate Cranberry Bread Pudding served with vanilla sauce and fresh raspberries, another time. Also enticing were Bowman’s Liquid Desserts (think Espresso Martini, spiced with Stoli Vanil Vodka, Borghetti Espresso Liquor, Kahlua, and simple syrup) and Chris Linson’s specialty coffees (like Jen’s Coffee, a heady blend of Godiva Chocolate Liqueur, Chila Orchata Cinnamon Cream Rum, and coffee), and craft cocktails, like Chris’s Lavender Martini (Bols Ederflower Liqueur, Fee Brothers Orange Bitters, and Champagne Float, splashed with lavender-infused Bluecoat Gin). Bowman’s North also offers sixteen beers on tap, plus a wide assortment of domestic and imported craft beers.
Aside from the outstanding regular seasonal menu, which also includes gluten-free items, the “Daily Specials”—featuring the likes of Fried Chicken Tuesdays, Burgers & Beer Wednesdays, and Thursday Lobster Night, not to mention live acoustic entertainment on Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays evenings—also make Bowman’s North well worth the trip.
Bowman’s North is located at 1274 Easton Road, Riegelsville, PA 18077; 610-510-3030; www.bowmansnorth.com. Open Sunday–Thursday, 11:30 a.m–9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11:30 a.m–10 p.m. Bar open daily until 1 a.m. Mondays Matter at Bowman’s because 10 percent of food sales each Monday are donated to a local family or organization.