By Frank D. Quattrone
Carved in wood on one of the walls at Chez Daniel is an arresting map of the world. It serves as an apt metaphor for the extensive influences that have shaped the worldview and culinary legerdemain of Chef-owner Daniel Gras. Open only since January of this year, Chez Daniel is a warm and cozy restaurant in Frenchtown, N.J., with a strong French accent, complemented by an enticing mix of Irish, Creole, seafood, and vegetarian items.
Daniel’s culinary roots extend to Bazancourt, France, where his grandfather was the chef-owner of a charming little restaurant. The journey to America began when Daniel’s father, who was also born in Bazancourt, a village near Reims in the Grand Est region east of Paris, saw an ad for a bakery in Cape May, N.J. Ready for a new adventure, this classically trained French baker then moved to the popular seaside resort to open the bakery he called Chez Michele.
That’s where Daniel Gras grew up, baking bread and cookies with his dad, until, at the age of 15, he started working in Cape May restaurants. His mornings began as a breakfast cook in a pancake house, followed by a gig in an Italian restaurant in the evening. Always in quest of new experience, Daniel has also manned the kitchen at Cape May’s Merion Inn; summered at a friend’s Japanese restaurant in Sea Isle City; served as executive chef at the Dubliner on the Delaware and eventually at Fiona’s in Frenchtown.
He polished his practical culinary talents at prestigious Johnson & Wales University, where he earned degrees in Culinary Arts and Food Service Management.
Fittingly, he has transformed the Irish-themed Dubliner into his French-fusion first restaurant, Chez Daniel, where his guests couldn’t be more pleased by the eclectic menu. Holdovers include the Frenchified appetizer Pommes Darphin “Boxty,” a crispy potato pancake spiced with chives and served with applesauce and sour cream; and the entrées Shepherd’s Pie, made with fresh ground USDA Choice beef, fresh herbs, spring peas, carrots, onions, and mashed potatoes, and the ever-popular Fish & Chips, made with Smithwick’s beer-battered fresh Alaskan cod, served with house-cut fries, tartar sauce, and coleslaw.
But on the evening of our visit, Eve and I opted to try an informal tasting menu of the chef’s (and patrons’) favorite dishes. For our appetizers, we enjoyed a flavorful Butternut Squash Salad, with roasted butternut squash, pomegranate perils (just listen to these ruby-hued seeds pop), pecans, beets, and goat cheese over a bed of spinach kissed by a creamy maple dressing; and the deceptively simply named “Scallops,” a perfect variation on scallops wrapped in bacon, with pan-seared scallops dressed comfortably with bacon lardons (small strips of lean bacon) and brown-buttered pecans in a butternut squash puree, with a nice portion of house-cut Pommes Frites on the side.
As we digested our amazing appetizers, our adorable and perky server, Emma Merritt, regaled us with fond memories of her former service with the chef at Fiona’s and Dubliner’s. But next, it was time for our tasting portions of three of Chez Daniel’s finest creations. Our entrées happened to include three of Eve’s favorite dishes.
The first was a fine regular menu item—Braised Short Rib, served with a bacon-onion jam and demi-glace, butternut squash puree, mashed potatoes, and seasonal vegetables (nicely charred carrots and asparagus). The chef also presented us with two of his exquisite weekend specials— peppery Arugula Pesto Halibut served over rice pilaf, and Rack of Lamb, panko-encrusted and served over mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables, in a rosemary garlic jus.
Although we were enticed by the Chocolate Caramel Coffee Cake, Fruit Tart, and Mango Crème Brûlée on the dessert menu, we were fortunate that Chef Daniel had decided to send out his famous Carrot Cake instead. His father’s own recipe, it was a delightful sweet treat topped with a cream cheese icing, with huge fresh strawberries on the side.
As talented as Daniel Gras is, the man couldn’t be more humble. He told us he is “never satisfied. I always try to get better. I’ve learned that the more you know, the less you know”—his mantra for improving his approach to the culinary arts. He’s been gradually introducing vegetarian and gluten-free items (clearly identified on the menu) and plans to begin weekend brunches (including four variations on Eggs Benedict) sometime in the next few weeks.
The seven patio tables will offer guests a neat view of a bustling curve of Frenchtown’s lively business district as they enjoy their Brie en Croute (brie wrapped in puff pastry, with fresh fruit and berry coulis), Pear Salad, French Onion Burger, Jambalaya, Ratatouille, or Mushroom Bourguignon Stew. But it doesn’t really matter when they arrive or what they order, as Chez Daniel offers an unpretentious fine dining experience without the fuss or price.
Don’t miss it! This one’s a keeper!
Chez Daniel is located at 51 Bridge Street, Frenchtown, N.J. 08825; 908-628-9602; www.chezdanielfrenchtown. Open Wednesday & Thursday, 12–8 p.m.; Friday, 12–8:30 p.m.; Saturday, 12 a.m.– 8:30 p.m.; & Sunday, 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Lunch served until 4 p.m. Dinner: 4 p.m.–closing. Closed Monday & Tuesday. BYOB. Reservations accepted.