Erini Restaurant

By Frank D. Quattrone

You know you’re in for a treat when you pull into Erini’s parking lot, bordered by blazingly colorful perennials. You’re greeted by a grinning scarecrow and a smiling “parkologist” (yep—it’s stitched across his T-shirt), who parks your car and points the way to the restaurant’s front door.

Inside, you see a bustling team of youthful servers wearing uniforms with the tagline “Positive Energy Loves Company.” The bar is shiny, sleek, and bright. The main dining room, with tables at a comfortable remove from each other, is graced by one of Erini’s four modern fireplaces, with lighted candles glowing in each of six niches.

At Erini, the details make a difference. Although the fact that the kitchen’s liners (prep counters) are made from World War II aircraft carriers may not make the food taste any better, the spotless kitchen, manned by a team of pleasant professionals, surely does.

Every detail speaks of Erini’s commitment to hospitality. That should come as no surprise to anyone familiar with the Greek penchant for welcoming strangers. Executive Chef-owner Nick Fifis inherited that, plus his passion for cooking, from his grandparents, born on the Greek island of Andros. He loved watching his grandmother cook and named his restaurant Erini, which means “peace” in Greek, after her.

His grandfather, Jimmy Fifis, owned and operated Ponzio’s, Cherry Hill’s famous diner, bakery, and bar, where Chef Nick worked for many years. Subsequently, he gained valuable experience in some of Philly’s finest restaurants, including Buddakan, Cuba Libre, and World Fusion (now Han Dynasty). 

But Erini bears Chef Nick’s unique stamp. Since he and his father purchased the hundred-year-old building seventeen years ago, he has been modernizing and transforming the old eatery into an ever-evolving dining experience, meticulously sprinkling his “S.A.L.T.” (sound, ambience, lighting, and temperature) across each distinct season.

The patio, where every table is bordered by four heating elements and “guarded” by towering pyramid “heaters” with flames shooting upward, is available for dining all-year round. Chef Nick has seen to it that “all the elements—water, fire, rocks, and plants”—create a unique atmosphere each season. The “Harvest Queen” figure dominating the patio during our visit will soon give way to Santa and his helpers during Erini’s award-winning Christmas magic display.

“One day I wrapped the gazebo in bamboo,” Chef Nick said. “Guests loved it. So I started planting perennials and changing the décor, as well as the menu, every season of the year.”

Not to be outdone by Erini’s distinctive ambience, the approachable upscale casual menu also sparkles. Eve and I were initially impressed by our appetizers. Eve raved about the succulent Lollipop Lambchops, served with garlic mashed potatoes, haricot verts, and remoulade, with edible sorrel flowers on the side. I enjoyed the (Maine) Lobster and Shrimp Spring Rolls. Made fresh in-house daily, the crispy golden rolls were filled with fresh vegetables and delectable denizens of the sea.

Other available appetizers include Chilled Oysters, Raspberry Baked Brie, Grilled Octopus, Yia Yia’s Meatballs, and a Meze Platter, laden with hummus, olives, feta cheese, stuffed grape leaves, roasted red peppers, and warm pita wedges.

Our entrées were no less impressive. I reveled in the hearty Seafood Risotto, with shrimp, scallops, clams, and mussels topping a bed of saffron rice, flavored with sun-dried tomato and basil. Eve had the 12-ounce Prime Center Cut New York Strip Steak, char-grilled and nicely seasoned, served with sautéed spinach and mashed sweet potatoes—a generous dish that tasted just as good the night after.

Among other choices, guests can also order Veal Cutlet Parmesan, Pretzel Crusted Grouper, Grilled 16-ounce Porterhouse Pork Chop, Braised Lamb Shank, and Land & Sea, a six-ounce filet mignon and sautéed jumbo lump crabcake served with garlic mashed potatoes and haricot verts.

Although the sumptuous-sounding desserts included Reese’s Pieces Cheesecake, Rice Pudding, Crème Brûlée, Chocolate Chip Cannoli, and Lemon Cheesecake, we opted, wisely, to trust Chef Nick’s own elegant creation—a fresh fruit swan, fashioned from artfully sliced Granny apples and “dining” on freshly sliced strawberries and two clusters of seedless black grapes. Simply exquisite! Our cheerful server, Rafaela Moreno, a veteran of Lambertville Station, said that the chef prepares his fruit swan for private parties and told us that she and the staff enjoy Erini’s décor and menu changes as much as the guests do.

General Manager Laura Piquero emphasized that guests always compliment the service here. She calls it “a lost art, more like European service, like a career or a profession.” Chef Nick proudly instills this spirit throughout the entire staff. He is ably assisted by Operations Manager Kyle Hillman, a fourteen-year veteran at Erini, who is also the longtime bar manager and does a little bit of everything, from payroll and human relations to booking private parties and “all liquid matters.”

Erini also has a dress code. Sports jerseys, beanies and caps, work boots, open-toed slides with socks, and revealing clothing are not permitted. Chef Nick calls it “smart casual and respectful. We want to create an atmosphere where all guests are comfortable.”

Whether you come for the unique ambience, the unparalleled hospitality, or Chef Nick’s sublime menu, you will not be disappointed by your visit to Erini.

Erini Restaurant is located at 1140 River Road, Ewing Township, New Jersey; 609-882-0303; www.erinirestaurant.com. Open Tuesday – Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday, 3 to 8 p.m. Closed Monday. Full-service bar. Available for private parties. Attractive Limited Lunch & Dinner Menus also available.