PAUL F WESLEY
Golden Pheasant
by Frank Quattrone
When a guest at an adjoining table politely asked if he could have a variation on a standard menu dish, server Annie Parise smiled brightly and said, without hesitation, “Of course, sir. No problem!”
The silver-haired bartender who shares a surname with a popular Irish whiskey told me he’s more than happy to whip up a specialty cocktail if the ingredients are on hand.
The executive chef, a second-generation Ukrainian American whose Odessa-born grandmother and relatives in Eastern Europe inspired his exciting culinary journey, surprised us with an amazing amusé—Lobster Ravioli kissed with roe tarragon butter over a bed of spinach.
The assistant general manager is a Southern-bred charmer with a daring background in the circus and years of experience in the hospitality industry. Her zest for life infuses the entire staff, who sincerely seem to be having fun as they serve their guests.
At Erwinna’s vaunted Golden Pheasant Inn, one of the oldest restaurants in virtually continuous service since its establishment in 1857, accommodation is the name of the game. That and so much more.
As Eve and I sat chatting with Assistant General Manager Donna Sampler looking out at the river, she said, “This is my office. Our guests love it here. People want an experience. To sit and relax. To enjoy the beautiful surroundings and attentive service. We try to create an experience.”
That’s no exaggeration. Sipping her stately White Cosmo (a blend of Grey Goose, lime juice, and white cranberry juice) as I did my refreshing Siesta Cocktail (Patron, Campari, grapefruit juice, and lime juice), Eve listened intently as Donna continued. “Kevin Teeling, our bartender, who also worked with me at the Black Bass, has built up quite a following.”
Kevin told me he loves “to build relationships, and it’s really easy at such a relaxed bar with only ten seats.” But it’s not just the bar that keeps them coming back. Donna said, “It’s a blessing to have such return business; but tourists, looking for a destination restaurant, also love it here. We like our guests and treat them like family.”
Speaking of family, Chef Michael Persalay, a Jersey boy who joined the staff in August 2021 and a veteran of forty-two years in the business, credits his own for sparking his passion for good food. “Plus, I’ve worked at a four-star French restaurant in New Jersey where I had some of the greatest teachers. But for three years, I also had my own eclectic restaurant,” he laughed, “doing a combination of pan-Asian, Southwestern, and other elements, so I’ve seen and done it all.” But his commitment to using the freshest locally sourced ingredients, French-inspired but with his own distinctive touch, remains consistent and highly effective.
Eve and I began our adventure in dining with the shareable, delectable Fruits de Mer. On one round platter, a dozen tender Arcadian Pearl Oysters from New Brunswick; on a large plate subdivided into four smaller plates, a treat for any seafood fancier—Shrimp Cocktail in one, Marinated Mussels in another, Tuna Tartare in a third, and a sumptuous House Smoked Salmon mixed with Crab in the last. Neptune, the god of the sea, would have been proud.
It was no surprise that our entrées were equally delightful. I ordered the Roasted Duck Magret, a dish I seldom see these days, boosted by a bed of red quinoa, Mandarin orange and pineapple slices, and bok choy over a subtle, flavorful rhubarb sauce. Eve, who could make a meal of vegetables any day, was ecstatic to find Vegetable Pavé on the menu. With five superb seafood dishes among the entrées, along with Roasted Rack of Lamb and Grilled Filet Mignon, this was a rare treat — layers of fresh root vegetables, roasted potatoes and fresh thyme topped with a mound of Eggplant Spinach Rollatini and crispy fried onions in a zesty cardamom broth. An eclectic background has served the chef well!
Our desserts made a perfect coda to our meal. With a recommendation from our sunny server, Annie Parise, Eve chose the Toasted Almond Cake, topped with port-poached strawberries, roasted rhubarb, and fresh whipped cream. Accompanied by a demi-tasse of espresso, I ordered the Chocolate Paris Brest, a pâté a choux (a delicate pastry shell) filled with silky smooth chocolate mousse, and topped with toasted brown sugar meringue dotted with crunchy chocolate pearls. King Louis XIV would have been as impressed as we were, especially in such charming surroundings.
Guests were also enjoying their meals on a warm spring day at four tables on the restaurant’s front porch, another dozen on the terrace, and a few more in the secluded garden area behind the inn (which also offers four elegant rooms for guests).
The inn is situated on land dating back to 1769. Nestled between the Delaware River and the canal, the Golden Pheasant Inn has been a tavern, restaurant, and inn ever since 1811 and developed a fine reputation under the Faure family from 1986 until 2019. The Thompson Family, who also own and operate the nearby Black Bass Hotel and Lumberville General Store, continue the inn’s proud tradition (to quote an accurate greeting on the menu) “of welcoming hospitality, delicious French-inspired cuisine, great wines and warm, inviting lodging in this idyllic setting.” Don’t miss it!
The Golden Pheasant Inn is located at 763 River Road, Erwinna, PA; 215-297-9260; www.goldenpheasant.com. Open for dinner Wednesday–Sunday, 4:30–9 p.m. Reservations highly recommended.