Holy Que Smokehouse
By Frank Quattrone
Holy smoke! There’s a new star on the horizon. And local lovers of barbecue have discovered their BBQ heaven—or, at least, haven. Cleverly called the Holy Que Smokehouse, it’s the brainchild of lifelong restaurateur Tom Peters, a specialist in opening restaurants. A native of Jersey City, Tom found new footing in 2014, when he attended a real estate convention in the Lone Star State.
Recovering from a heart attack and seeking a quality-of-life upgrade, Tom fell in love with the taste and the craft of Texas barbecue on that fateful trip. Since then, he has recommitted himself to the restaurant business (which he’d never totally abandoned, even while plying his skills in real estate).
The result? Holy Que Smokehouse, an authentic wood-fired Texas barbecue in Lahaska—a relatively small space with a truly big heart. Open only three days a week—the busy weekend from Friday through Sunday—Holy Que has been wowing its growing legion of loyalists since opening during the challenging Covid “winter” of 2020.
Asked why he chose Texas rather than the equally popular Carolina style, Tom was both forthcoming and colorful. “The lack of sauce,” he said. “We grill our meats low and slow with salt and pepper—and a whole lotta love,” he said with a laugh. “It lets the meat speak for itself, without interference or added flavor. But we do offer a bourbon brown sugar sauce, on the side, for those who want it.”
Why only three days a week? Again, Tom laughed (something he’s really good at). “Man, barbecue is still a kind of destination in these parts. Plus, we do a huge business in catering. Right now my staff and I trim twenty to thirty briskets every Thursday and smoke maybe sixteen or more a week. We fire our meats fresh every day for twelve hours. But when we get our new smoker in a few weeks, we’ll be able to cook sixty briskets at a time!”
It's not just the aroma and anticipation of freshly smoked meats that tease the taste buds as you enter Holy Que. It’s the warm greeting of the smiling Ama Houck, the vivacious presence Tom Peters calls his “director of first impressions.” And it’s the invitation to partake of a complimentary can of Miller’s, “the champagne of beer,” as Tom reminds his latest patrons.
You order from the menu above the counter. Pitmaster Matt Waddell and sous chef Yaritza Rodriguez are smiling also from behind the counter, and Ama delivers it in record time as you settle in for your meal, and you know you’re in for a treat.
We’d heard of Holy Que’s “Most Wanted Sandwich,” the Holy Grail, a mini skyscraper of brisket, pulled pork, and cheddar brat all in one. But Tom recommended the Holy Trinity platter instead. (You get the picture.) He said, “You’ve got to try this Texas staple. It’s a third of a pound of sliced brisket, brats, and pork spareribs with your choice of side.” All platters are served with zesty pickled onions and sliced potato bread. For sides, since Eve and I were sharing, we had the Mac and Cheese, made with smoked Gouda, mild yellow and sharp Cooper cheddar; creamy and cheesy West TX Cream Corn “with just the right amount of heat”; and crispy green beans.
I had a Pulled Pork Sandwich, also a third of a pound, with meat that easily broke off on my fork, served with pickled onions, barbecue sauce on the side, and a huge slice of cornbread, birthed in buttermilk and honey—probably the best I’ve ever tasted. Although we saved a little room for the sweet, delicious Banana Pudding, one of two desserts made on the premises (the 900-calories “Monster Chocolate Chip Cookie” had already sold out), it was obvious to us when Ama delivered the goods that we couldn’t possibly finish this terrific meal. More happy moments to savor at home, to be sure!
Tom Peters loves the business. His mother, who is Lebanese, once had her own restaurant, and the family has dabbled in food trucks over the years. Tom remembers serving coffee from his uncles’ trucks when he was twelve years old and has worked in countless kitchens, from food trucks to fine dining, for years (including his own restaurant in Scottsdale, many moons ago). Coming late spring, Tom says, is a Holy Que food truck, which will serve great barbecued foods made at the Lahaska site all over Philadelphia, parts of New Jersey, and definitely “down the shore.”
In season, Holy Que can seat up to eighty patrons at covered tables outdoors, while thirty-two can eat comfortably indoors. There’s lots of laughter at Holy Que. Tom says it’s because “we’re so community-oriented. We know our customers’ names and birthdays, contribute to families in need, and love a communal style.”
Our recommendation: here’s a business to watch and support and enjoy again and again.
Holy Que Smokehouse is located at 5788 Lower York Road, Lahaska, PA; 267-544-5762; www.holyque.com. Open Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.–7 p.m., and Sunday, 12–4 p.m. unless they sell out sooner. Dine in. Take out. Private catering available. First-come, first-served. No reservations.