By Diana Cercone
Joey on Friends said it. And Vito on The Sopranos was heard hurtling the same phrase in the heat of an argument. The phrase they uttered, vá fa Napoli, translates to “go back to Naples.” But the intended meaning—sending the recipient to a very hot spot—has not only snowballed into a derogatory curse but has also tarnished all that is Neapolitan. This was too much for Giancarlo Truppi. His father was born in Naples and his mother’s parents also came from the city, known for centuries as a city prized for its history, art, culture and cuisine.
But how to change the perception of vá fa napoli? To Giancarlo the answer lay steeped in his family’s Neapolitan roots—beginning with one of Naples classic culinary creations: pizza. Along with his father, Carlo, and his mother, Faith, Giancarlo started making not only the best pizza this side of Naples, but also incorporating the culture and flavors of Naples into every bite.
And thus was Vá Fa Napoli Pizza born.
At first it started as a way for family and friends to gather safely around their outdoor Neapolitan-styled, wood-burning pizza oven in their back yard during Covid, Giancarlo says. What started as a way for a few close family members and friends to be together, as word spread, he says, it soon became a magnet for more friends, family and neighbors to join in their open-air pizza parties.
The year was 2020. It was also the year Giancarlo graduated from high school. Instead of taking on-line college courses due to Covid, he gravitated to helping his good friend and professional chef, Keith Taylor, who was helping other chefs and restaurants transition to takeout and pop-up restaurants.
After successfully helping his share of restaurants, including his cousin Gabriella Truppi’s ice cream parlor, Humdoo, in Flemington, Giancarlo persuaded his parents to take their Neapolitan pizza-making skills on the road. Literally—from their back yard to yours.
Wasn’t long before they had a custom-made mobile pizza truck fitted with a classic Neapolitan dome-designed wood-burning oven that could burn at 900° F. Properly equipped, they started bringing their wood-burning pizza oven to clients’ backyards and lawns for outdoor parties and celebrations.
Ever since he could remember, Giancarlo says, his father was always creating Neapolitan dishes he learned from his mother and nonna (grandmother), including making pizza. Giancarlo recalls spending many happy days helping his father in the kitchen. Working together, they now have a menu of three standard pizzas: Classic Margherita, The Marinara and the Vegan Marinara.
The Classic Margherita is simple but elegant. Though pizza has been made in Naples since 1000 A.D., it wasn’t recognized as a coveted culinary creation until June 11, 1889, when a local pizzaiolo, Raffaele Esposito, created a special pizza in honor of King Umberto I and Queen Margherita’s visit. Made with only ingredients depicting the three colors of the Italian flag: red (tomatoes), white (mozzarella) and green (basil), the queen declared it a favorite. Esposito quickly named it after her and it has since been known world-wide as the Neapolitan classic pizza alla Margherita.
For their Classic Margherita, the Truppis start with their homemade San Marzano marinara sauce (The Base) and add fresh mozzarella, aged Parmigiano Reggiano, fresh basil leaves and extra virgin olive oil (EVOO). Known as the original “tomato pie,” the Marinara also starts with The Base, adding fresh, sliced garlic, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, fresh basil leaves, dried oregano and EVOO. The thought of offering a vegan version would level most seasoned pizzaiolos like deflated dough. But not Giancarlo. After testing several, including running them by his sister, Silvana, a staunch vegan, he found Violife’s vegan mozzarella to meet his standard of taste and quality. (Vá Fa Napoli Pizza dough and sauce are always vegan.)
Along with Vá Fa Napoli’s three classic pizzas, they offer 13 specialty ones at last count. But knowing Giancarlo and his dad, they’re always open to new creations, challenges and suggestions.
Many of the specialty pizzas, Giancarlo’s says, were inspired by the family dinners his father made, as well as other Neapolitan classic dishes such as the Shrimp Scampi Pizza. A fresh garlic, EVOO and butter sauce creates the base which is topped with both fresh mozzarella and parsley and generously studded with their signature shrimp scampi. Another family-inspired pizza is Nonna’s Sunday Special, which boasts a ricotta-stuffed crust and homemade meatballs. The meatballs are slowly cooked in their homemade “Sunday” sauce which simmers for four hours.
Along with the meatball topping, the triumvirate of Italian cheeses (fresh mozzarella, aged Parmigiano Reggiano and aged pecorino cheeses) are added. The stuffed crust (another of Naples’ culinary crowns) invokes the tradition of scarpetta (little shoe), the scooping up of the last bit of sauce left with bread after the pasta has been devoured. For a full Neapolitan deep dive, the Truppis encourage their client’s guests to break off a piece of the crust and dunk it into the sauce before digging into the pizza. Now that’s amoré!
Another Neapolitan-inspired classic is Nerano pizza. In his popular TV series, Searching for Italy, Stanley Tucci showcases this namesake pasta featuring zucchini. In their take, the Truppis top the sweet and succulent zucchini sauce with fresh mozzarella, aged Parmigiano Reggiano, Caciocavallo (a prized cheese from the Naples region) and EVOO.
No pizzaioli’s weight in dough would be worthy without a white pizza. Vá Fa Napoli gins up their Bianca with their signature whipped ricotta cheese as its base. Then crowning the ricotta-covered dough with fresh mozzarella, aged Parmigiano Reggiano, fresh garlic, their signature slow-roasted mushrooms and white truffle oil. Need I say more?
Then there are those inspired by other cuisines, such as Giancarlo’s take on Mexican Street Corn, Chicken Buffalo Ranch, Makhani Paneer, Orange Curry and Tandoori.
The latter three were inspired by clients who were either celebrating a birthday or traditional Indian engagement parties. Giancarlo masterly marries the main elements of Indian cuisine with that of Italian. For example, the Makhani sauce ( butter-chicken sauce) is a blend of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, fresh mozzarella and house made paneer sauce. For his Orange Curry base, he combines fresh mozzarella (and like all Vá Fa Napoli Pizza’s mozzarella, it’s from Lebanon Cheese Co. in New Jersey), Parmigiano-Reggiano, spicy peppers and chili infused in olive oil. The Tandoori base is an ambrosial mix of yogurt, smoked mozzarella, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano and (if not vegetarian, optional chicken pieces) and Indian spices.
But, then, the Truppis honor all dietary requests as well as welcome culinary challenges such as the Vegan Marinara and Indian/Italian Pizzas. Last year one of their clients asked if they could create a Potato Pizza for their wedding which had a St. Patrick’s Day theme. No problem. Giancarlo and his dad delivered. They created a potato sauce base inspired by the Neapolitan dish Pasta e Patate (pasta and potato). They’ve even created pizzas for clients using special, spicy peppers and vegetables from the clients’ gardens.
Vá Fa Napoli Pizza is a far cry from just a food truck. It’s a culinary trip to Naples with all six senses fired at full speed. It’s the enticing aromas, watching the pizzas rise and blister in the 900°F oven, talking with Giancarlo and his family and asking questions as they make the pizzas and the umami pleasure of holding and then biting into a hot, crusty, full-flavored pizza slice while swaying to the beat of music playing. Just don’t be surprised if you and your guests end the evening with a rockin’ tarantella.
For with Vá Fa Napoli Pizza, you don’t only hire a food truck and caterer, you become family. Molto bené!
For more information call 908-303-1951 or visit www.Vafanapolipizza.com.
Diana Cercone is an area freelance writer who specializes in food, art and travel.