Tewksbury Inn

by Frank Quattrone

Even on a night when a major summer storm turned umbrellas inside-out and flooded nearby streets and byways, guests poured in to enjoy a Saturday evening repast at charming Tewksbury Inn. The venerable stagecoach inn in the equine heart of Hunterdon County has been a favorite watering hole since a hotel was built on the site in 1800.

Old-World chandeliers, floral wallpaper, exposed wooden beams, elegantly curved window treatment, and artwork featuring classic wooden barns certainly recall a more innocent time. A patio and garden terrace invite summer guests to enjoy alfresco dining. And the friendly tavern atmosphere of bygone days remains, including an easy rapport between guests and staff.

General Manager Heather Howard observes that many servers “have been here for a decade or two and have watched the children of local families grow up and sometimes work alongside them as they come to the Tewks for summer jobs in high school or before college. We are very much a family and want everyone to feel that way when they walk through the door.”

Mission accomplished, Heather. We met a bubbly server named Kristen in the parking lot as we pulled in and she couldn’t stop gushing about the restaurant, the chef, and the décor all the way in to the main entrance. And as our eventual server, Sandy Breickopf, pointed out as she was folding linen napkins and setting up tables, many servers have been working at the inn for up to twenty-four years.

A restaurant that prides itself on its continuity couldn’t do much better than its lively executive chef, Chris Quintile. Born in Philadelphia and raised in Clinton, New Jersey, Chris started in the business as a dishwasher at the age of 15 and actually worked at Tewskbury Inn when he was 18. Subsequent experience at a Chicago restaurant co-owned by Michael Jordan (where Executive Chef Martial Nougier proved to be a huge influence) and at other restaurants eventually led him back to the Tewks.

“We’re big on consistency here,” he said, “and in my eighteen years as executive chef, I’ve learned what our guests really like. The menu changes seasonally, of course, and they don’t need our cuisine to be too fancy. Personally, I like balanced ‘happy marriages’ among ingredients and flavors that work really well together.” And the menu he’s developed over the years is quintessentially American, with influences from French and Italian. The Butter Poached Lobster, Bistro Chicken, and Filet Mignon au Poivré are just three dishes his clientele refuse to have him change.

At Tewksbury Inn, you’ll experience fine dining without the frills, or, as the chef likes to say, “comfortable dining.” The night of our visit, we started off with the restaurant’s popular Ice Cold Raw Bar—a circular array of Blue Point oysters and delicate, tasty shrimp. Hungry after our long drive to Hunterdon County, we also ordered two more appetizers. My Steak Carpaccio was a perfect example of the chef’s preference for “balanced marriages,” with nearly transparent slivers of steak enhanced by fried capers and baby arugula kissed with Parmigiano Reggiano and extra virgin olive oil. Eve also savored her Heirloom Tomatoes and Burrata, complemented by red onion, garlic and fresh basil in a splash of barrel-aged red wine vinegar and extra virgin olive oil.

Perhaps it was the rainstorm turning Main Street into a rivulet, but we fancied the chef’s fine seafood for our next course. Eve was happy with the Tomato Crusted Cod, a light, flavorful entrée paired with bacon, tomato corn ragout, chimichurri (a tasty blend of minced garlic, chopped parsley, oregano, extra virgin olive oil, and red wine vinegar) over microgreens. And I thoroughly enjoyed my tender, delicately sweet Pan Roasted Sea Scallops, served with grilled leeks, blistered cherry tomatoes, and chive oil, along with the tomato corn ragout (which the chef graciously substituted for the creamed corn, to accommodate my lactose intolerance).

As the storm rose, we enjoyed our house-made Peach Melba, served with toasted almonds and the biggest raspberries I’ve ever seen. Judging from the lively chatter we heard all around us, the Tewk’s guests were in no hurry to leave, hoping to weather the storm, enjoying the inn’s pleasant ambiance and attractive wine list and creative, seasonally driven cocktails. This is something General Manager Heather Howard, a former bartender now pursuing her certification as a sommelier, is especially proud of. Think “Spring in the ’Bourbs,” Sourland Mountain Bourbon, lemon juice and blackberry syrup served on the rocks with a splash of ginger beer, or a Pineapple Mojito, made with white rum, muddled mint and pineapple puree topped with club soda.

Although the long drive home was a bit nightmarish, the memory of a terrific meal, with warm and friendly service, and a talented chef and general manager committed to creating an experience well worth repeating, we knew we would one day return to the Tewks, an unparalleled culinary destination in Hunterdon County.

The Tewksbury Inn is located at 55 Main Street, Oldwick, N.J. 08858; www.thetewksburyinn.com; 908-439-2641. Open for lunch Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday, 12 to 4 p.m.; and for dinner, Monday to Thursday, 5 – 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 – 10 p.m., and Sunday, 4:30 to 9 p.m. Reservations recommended. Available for private events in upstairs dining room.