Rosa Bianca
by Susan Gordon
Summertime and the eating is spectacular, particularly when you are sitting outside on the wrap-around porch of Yardley's Trattoria Rosa Bianco, a charming, upscale Italian eatery located in the borough's tidy historic district. Actually, eating anywhere in this beautifully restored Victorian mansion—inside or outside—is spectacular thanks to its soft, casually elegant décor, and the exquisitely fresh, full-flavored and creative cuisine being prepared in the trattoria's kitchen.
How fresh? The kitchen doesn't even have a freezer. In true European style, chef/owner Anthony Boccella goes to the market every day: which, according to his wife, GM and co-owner, Rosa Boccella sometimes causes a problem. "Guests come in and want to order a dish they've had before, and we have to tell them, 'Sorry,' we don't have those ingredients in the kitchen right now.'" But never fear, while the menu is ever changing, the quality of the food and attention to detail is not. This is Italian cooking in the finest sense of the word—with dishes spanning the peninsula from the tantalizing gnocchi of Venice, to papardelle alla Bolognese, to frutti di mare that would be right at home on the Amalfi coast. But Chef Anthony's take on many Italian dishes is far from traditional, which makes dinner here even more delightful.
The creativity begins with the Antipasti offerings. Crudo di Tonno (raw tuna) is paired with sweet oranges, pickled hot peppers and lemon wedges. The Trattoria's Mussels, steamed in seafood broth flavored with pancetta and red chili pepper, are deeply satisfying. On the recommendation of our buoyant server, Reggie, I chose a plate of tender-crisp Asparagus, tossed with a light lemon vinaigrette, topped with sweet lump crabmeat and garnished with paper-thin slices of pickled radish. Superb. My husband selected a menu addition: silky chicken liver paté spread on homemade crostini, drizzled with fresh blueberry sauce and garnished with whole berries and crushed pistachios: an unexpected and delicious presentation. Then, we shared a peppery house salad of fresh baby greens and tomatoes, served family style and included with our meal.
Nowhere is Chef Anthony's ability to upscale traditional dishes more evident than with his pastas. Lasagna di maiale brasato is built with layers of homemade noodles, braised pork ribs, creamy ricotta, spinach and fresh tomato sauce. Trofie, thin twisted pasta from Genoa, is combined with asparagus and pancetta, coated with basil pesto and enriched with pecorino. Melt-in-your-mouth Ricotta Gnocchi changes styles with the seasons. A version I recently enjoyed was sauced with silky Gorgonzola cream scented with rosemary and tossed with blueberries then drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction. And, if you think spaghetti isn't spaghetti without tomato sauce, you haven't tried the chef's Spaghetti ai Carota, tossed with a Moroccan-influenced carrot purée, then garnished with a bright mint and pistachio pesto. F.Y.I. all pastas except the Lasagna are available as half or full portions.
Entrées (or Secondi, in Italian) are prepared with the same flair and inventiveness as the preceding courses. Here, the chef stays slightly closer to tradition, but seasonings and presentation still reflect Anthony's culinary approach. Grilled strip steak (Bistecca) is sided with roasted potatoes and sautéed spinach, but an incredibly rich salsa made with minced garlic and fresh herbs including basil, Italian parsley, oregano and tarragon with fruity olive oil infuse the meat with true Italian spirit. Succulent Salmone al cartoccio, a large filet of salmon steamed in parchment with roasted tomatoes, ripe olives, and potatoes sings with flavor thanks to thin slices of roasted fennel and white wine which flavor the broth. And I can honestly say, although I've had my share of Frutti di mare—in restaurants foreign and domestic—I've never had any fresher, more flavorful or more crammed with seafood than the version served at Trattoria Rosa Bianco. Tender sea scallops, calamari, shrimp, and mussels all vie for attention in a wonderfully light tomato-seafood broth with a hint of cream and basil, and just enough red pepper to impart a lovely after-burn. No pasta required, just thick slices of crusty grilled bread to sop up the broth. A truly memorable dish that tasted just as good reheated the next day, because the portion far exceeded my appetite.
Of course, there are homemade desserts: flourless chocolate cake, cannolis, and cheesecake, all delicious and perfectly Italian. But for a more unusual treat, I'd suggest ordering the Lemon Tart, which resembles a dense lemon cake baked in a cookie crust and served with buttery lemon curd oozing down the sides and across the plate. A drizzle of intense balsamic vinegar makes this a dessert an extra-special indulgence.
Trattoria Rosa Bianca is located at 94 S Main St, Yardley, PA; 267-392-5738; www.rosabiancatrattoria.com. Open Sun.–Thurs., 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri.–Sat., 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sunday Brunch, 11a.m.–3 p..m. 3-course Chef Tasting Menu ($22) available Mon. & Tues. BYOB. Reservations.