Frank Quatrone
Whose life hasn’t been upended by this unprecedented COVID-19 pandemic? At a time when social distancing—an oxymoron, if I’ve ever heard one—has become a vital, if unwanted, addition to our vocabulary; when face masks have become the recommended norm rather than the odd exception; when hand sanitizer and disinfectant wipes have become more ubiquitous than friendly hugs and smiling faces; when ZOOM becomes a video communications platform rather than driving quickly down the highway; when dining out has devolved into a choice between pick-up or delivery by the restaurant of your choice (should it be fortunate enough to still be open!)—you know that something is amiss. It’s like living in a science-fiction fever dream—except that it’s the new norm. At least for now. But all is not lost. We will survive this crisis and lockdown. It’s inducing all of us to pull (ourselves) together for the greater good and to find the means to entertain ourselves and fill the social void in ways we’d never have expected. I like to cook. So Eve and I have designated every Friday as “Italian Night,” when I conjure up one of my mother’s or grand mom’s familiar homemade recipes or try my own version of Eggplant Parmigiana or Spaghetti Carbonara over a nice bottle of Montepulciano or Valpolicella with homemade Italian bread and celebrate a culture we love so well. But we also enjoy dining out. We love the ambiance of a bustling neighborhood restaurant, being pampered by attentive servers as patrons laugh and chat away over their favorite Mexican, Chinese, Italian, or Thai delicacy. And during the sweltering season, we especially enjoy partaking of the bounty of the sea—fresh salmon, shrimp, scallops, and more, to help recall favorite coastal haunts and memories. And so, abiding by new safe social norms, unable to travel too far, and hungry for a good old-fashioned clam bake, we turned to our first post-lockdown takeout experience at a restaurant not far from where we live. And, brother, did we luck out! On a warm spring evening, we placed an order with Alessio’s Seafood Grille in Warrington for the half-single portion of their legendary Cape Cod Clam Bake, allegedly a hearty meal for two. We called in ten minutes before arrival to be sure our meal would be super fresh and hot. Masked co-owners Joe and Jaqueline Mannino soon came out to greet us as we sat in our badly neglected Subaru—Joe winking behind his bandanna and proffering a distant elbow before returning to assist their sons Giuseppe and Giovanni in the kitchen, as a smiling Jacqueline (even a mask couldn’t contain that happy face) brought us a huge takeout container with our evening’s seafood dinner and two smaller containers with our appetizer and a meal for tomorrow. It’s so simple. You call the Manninos (the Italian-villa-style restaurant is named after their youngest son) at 267-483-8500, pay by credit card, tell them when you’d like to pick up your order or when you’d like them to deliver, and you’ll have a meal you’ll never forget. That’s because everything on the menu is made fresh by hand every day but Monday, their one day off — from flavorful sauces and salad dressings to their unique homemade Eggplant Fries, tempura-fried and served with a Tabanero hot sauce. Those fries, by the way, were the centerpiece of our Combo Appetizer, which also featured the best Popcorn Shrimp and Clam Strips we’ve had in years. Served with house-made cocktail sauce, this amazing combo could easily have made a meal in itself. We also ordered the Veal Marsala, topped with a delectable mushroom sauce and accompanied by freshly roasted potatoes and vegetables, for another day. But we had come for the clam bake and were absolutely delighted. When we removed the container lid, the aroma of the sea filled our humble dining room. Before us were arrayed (a meal that could have satisfied four famished athletes, not just two ordinary hungry people) half a lobster, a king crab leg, a dozen clams, 30 mussels, a half-dozen scallops, a snow crab cluster, and a dozen peel-and-eat shrimp, all steamed in a lemon, seaweed, Old Bay, and seafood broth and served with three half-ears of corn and baked potatoes. “A party in a bucket,” as Jacqueline might say, it was the best meal we’ve had in months! Eve quickly proclaimed it her “new favorite restaurant” and already had plans to order Alessio’s Louisiana Style Smoked Ribs later this summer. Jacqueline said that it’s one of their patrons’ favorite dishes, painstakingly prepared on their wood-burning oven, where an array of seafood, meat, vegetarian, and barbecue pizzas also delight their guests. Yes, business is down, the Manninos admit. But Jacqueline says, “We’ve been so fortunate. Our regulars are beyond belief. They’ve been a tremendous support, calling in big orders on Friday nights and most other nights. Joe and I love the demographic here in Warrington and beyond. Such nice people. They haven’t let us down.” Not hard to understand why, as the Manninos have seafood delivered fresh to the restaurant six days a week. And true to his upbringing, the self-taught Joe learned to cook from his Sicilian-born father, with whom he worked at the elder Mannino’s pizza restaurant in Lambertville years ago and taught his two older sons everything he knows in this quintessential family-owned-and-operated business. Open since 2002, Alessio’s Seafood Grille offers a welcome taste of Italy and the sea. With its inspired appetizers (like those Eggplant Fries and Joe’s flash-fried Bangin’ Shrimp), signature salads (think grilled shrimp and scallops over spinach and avocado), classic pizzas, signature Italian specialties (like Eggplant Rollatini or Gnocchi), and incredible seafood dishes, from Snow Crab and Alaska King Crab to Coconut Shrimp and various clam bake combinations, you might not miss going down the shore as much as you think. With ninety percent of its present business coming in takeout, Alessio’s is the perfect choice for a great summer meal (any time of the year)!
Alessio’s Seafood Grille is located 827 Easton Road, Warrington, PA 18976 between the Wellness Center and Valley Square); 267-483-8500; www.alessioseafoodgrille.com. Open for curbside pick-up or delivery Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Monday.