by Frank Quattrone
You enter the restaurant’s cellar bar from a barrel door resembling a Hobbit Hole from Lord of the Rings. Next to the door is a “sculpted” marker of four stones, each announcing the experience you’ll find inside—ENLIGHTENMENT, LIVE ENTERTAINMENT, SPIRIT, FOOD—topped by a “beer bottle” bearing the name “Dharma Bums.”
Yep, that’s the name of a novel penned by counterculture hero Jack Kerouac in the late ’50s. Detailing the duality of the author’s life and experience—the great outdoors vs. the jazz clubs of the city, the juxtaposition of Buddhism and Western thought—Dharma Bums inspired co-owners Steven and Fiona Trachtenberg to open their so-called “outlet for creativity” last July.
The Black Cat Motorcycle Club once gathered here. Social revolutionary Abbie Hoffman held his infamous Dump the Pump rallies within these walls. Steven Trachtenberg tells me some of his regular guests frequented the premises in those good old bad old days in the ’60s when the place was called Jack’s Bar and later Apple-Jacks.
Once inside, you’ll hear the lively chatter of patrons actually talking with each other. There are no TVs at Dharma Bums. Cell phone reception is poor, at best. But there’s never a lack of something to engage mind, body, or spirit. Each Wednesday evening from 7 to 10, the Dbums’ Hootenanny invites musicians, comics, and spoken word artists to partner up with the open mic. Expect to hear professional live music, either at the cellar bar or in the restored mid-century communal space upstairs from Thursday through Saturday nights.
Every other Sunday from 4 to 6 p.m. there’s a Drum Circle upstairs, where maple slats in the spacious ’50s-era Noll and Herman Miller-designed room create acoustic magic or a sound bath. At other times, you’ll find yoga, pottery, or other classes or workshops in progress.
Fiona, born in Scotland and raised in Hong Kong, has an M.A. in ceramics and often teaches here. You’ll often find Steven, a graduate of U. of P. who does all the bookings, engaged in conversation with genial General Manager Mark Mooradian or patrons at the finely detailed tables or ’70s-era bar.
Steven and Fiona are longtime vegetarians, and this is what you’ll find on the menu—“vegetarian bar fare with an Asian flair”—another nod to the junction of West and East. He cited Naan Grilled Cheese with cheddar, American, and paneer cheeses, a popular American sandwich with a decidedly Indian twist. And the very Italian cannoli, a vegan “cheesecake” dessert filled with cherry and caramel, served in a wonton! Enough to turn anyone’s head and taste buds, no?
In the midst of my interview with Steven and Fiona, Chef Justin McClain, who studied at Johnson & Wales, came by to chat. Naturally, we asked if he too was vegetarian. He told us no, that he had been a private chef with his own business for the past decade. He said he quickly became inspired by the menu that had evolved organically over the restaurant’s first three months.
“I was more than eager to try,” he said. “I loved Steven and Fiona’s concept. But I was really sold when I saw the smiles on the faces of our guests, many of whom normally eat meat.” It’s clear that patrons may be attracted to the Dharma Bums’ vibe. But ultimately, they come to realize what Fiona insists—that “food is who we are.”
Our heads spinning pleasantly from our talk with the staff, the faint rat-a-tat-tat of the drum circle upstairs, and the allure of the small bites, salads, and big bites passing by, we settled in for our feast. It began with Cauliflower Tacos, a tasty vegan “big bite” spiced with daikon slaw and sriracha aioli, served gluten-free in a lettuce wrap. Accompanying our tacos was a Sweet ’n’ Sour Quinoa Salad, another vegan dish distinguished by a hearty blend of Brussels sprouts, toasted peanuts, and daikon radish seasoned with Bragg’s Liquid Aminos, a non-GMO soy-like sesame sauce.
Our main course? Inspired takes on popular sandwiches: A scrumptious Seitan Cheese “Steak” fashioned from shiitake mushrooms, caramelized onions, and “wiz,” served on naan bread (vegan without the “wiz”); and a Reuben Seitanwich on rye—filled with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, Japanese mustard, and (of course) seitan, that wheat-based, protein-rich kitchen chameleon that neatly replicates meat. Amazing, both!
Our dessert was a lovely Fuji Pear Tart served with crème anglaise and “fresh whip.” And my accompanying cocktail was an Elderberry Yuzu Mojito, a blend of white rum, Bluestem Botanicals Elderberry Elixir, mint, and yuzu (a sour Japanese citrus fruit)—another Western favorite kissed by the East.
The menu at Dharma Bums changes seasonally. Steven says that weekend brunches, including house-roasted coffee, are coming this Spring. And the popular courtyard, where kids (and well-behaved dogs) are more than welcome to enjoy the games and ambience under Japanese maple and Asian pear trees by an outdoor fireplace, will soon be jumping.
You must come. You’ll be drawn by the enlightenment, live entertainment, and spirit; but you’ll stay for the food.
Dharma Bums is located at 4935 River Road, New Hope, PA; 215-663-2867; www.dbums.com. Vegetarian. Hours: Monday & Tuesday: closed. Wednesday & Thursday, 4–10 p.m. Friday & Saturday, 4 p.m.–midnight. Sunday, 12–10 p.m. No reservations taken; first-come, first-served. Check website for live entertainment, classes, and workshops. Takeout available.