Jules @ Market

By Frank D. Quattrone

Dining at Jules @ Market during a sudden torrential downpour can be quite a trip. Entertaining to the max. A delight for the senses. As your taste buds tingle with the sumptuous seafood banquet on your table, your ears perk up to the pounding of rain on the roof, momentarily drowning out the pleasant strains of classic jazz in the air.

For a moment your eyes drift to the makeshift screen where Jack Nicholson’s eyebrows arch wildly to a sound-free, subtitled showing of Something’s Gotta Give. Just as quickly, they turn to the spacious open kitchen, where a team of chefs and servers perform their seamless choreography for their receptive audience. Then all eyes open to the bank of burners where darting flames reach high to scorch someone’s Blackened Jail Island Salmon.

Whew! An evening to remember, with the promise of multiple returns. Since its modest opening in November 2017, Jules @ Market has grown from the new kid on the block that could to one of the region’s premier seafood destinations. The awards and recognition for its inspired menu don’t lie. Philadelphia Magazine 2019: “Best Seafood.” Bucks Happening 2019: “Best Seafood Restaurant.” One of the “Best in Bucks,” 2018 and 2019. Open Table Diners Choice awards, 2018 and 2019.

Not to mention what Chef Bob Williams says he hears most from impressed guests: “A hidden gem.” (A hidden Jule?) The chef, who shares executive chef duties with owner Julia (she prefers Jules) Marie, says that many surprised patrons tell him “I love seafood now. Never did before.”

Easy to see why. Chef Bob says, “It comes natural to me. I grew up on a boat since I was a kid on Long Beach Island. I’ve always been around fish and seafood.” Sous Chef Sam Ball (a veteran of Lawrenceville’s vaunted Vidalia Restaurant who has also worked here since Jules opened), is also a sea-foodie. He says his brother works on a scallop boat off the Jersey coast, so he too has a passion for a good catch.

Because the restaurant has done so well since our first visit in July 2018, it’s been able to purchase new tables and chairs, upgrade the kitchen, and add a dining patio, and chefs Jules and Bob continue to tweak their exceptional menu and raw bar. The menu, which changes from week to week—sometimes from day to day, depending on the freshness of its farm-to-table/ocean-to-table product—now features a spectacular Seafood Tower, with a generous array of oysters, shrimp cocktail, smoked trout pâté, and Alaskan king crab.

But on our most recent visit, we started off with two surprisingly delightful dishes. We shared both the Hamachi Crudo, a refreshing plate of sushi-grade Hamachi, cucumber, avocado, jalapeño, micros, and wasabi, and my favorite dish of the evening — Lobster Stuffed Jalapeño. A bit hesitant when our gregarious server, Jim Sharple, recommended it, we were pleasantly stunned by its tangy taste and innovative preparation. In hollowed-out jalapeño shells was an inspired blend of lobster meat, chives, fresh bacon bits, creamed locatelli cheese, and garlic crumble, with spicy sriracha mayo on the side. Only if you dig too deeply into the shell can you really feel the heat. But it was a genuine taste sensation!

Nor did our seafood entrées disappoint. Our Monkfish (often dubbed “lobster light” because of its similar texture), fresh from Maine, had no trace of the rubbery feel we’ve often experienced at lesser seafood eateries. It was nicely complemented by a bed of chicory, mustard greens, lemon, butter, and capers. Our second-favorite dish (after the Lobster Stuffed Jalapeño) was the excellent Whole Branzino, also situated comfortably on a bed of mustard and chicory greens, lemon, butter, and capers. It was served with sides of mashed potatoes and a cool Corn & White Bean Succotash.

Our delightful server, who explained everything on the menu clearly and enticingly without ever consulting notes (or asking the chef—a feature we often find unfortunate), then asked if we’d have any room for some oysters on the half shell. As we did, he soon brought us a dozen of the finest Prince Edward Island oysters that money can buy. With the tangy house cocktail sauce and mignonette (a cracked pepper sauce), they proved to be one more treat before dessert.

Also made in house, our desserts were an excellent Key Lime Pie on a graham cracker crust and an unforgettable Pot de Crème, that rich French custard topped with marshmallow cream.

For those expecting the chaos and colleague clashes on view in FX on Hulu’s recent smash hit The Bear, you’ll be greatly disappointed. Jules’ open kitchen offers instead a well-oiled, pleasant staff environment. Lots of earnest smiles all around. The staff really seems to enjoy working here. Chef Bob, with a wink and a nod, of course, to Jules, takes some of the credit. He says, “I’m the maestro making sure everyone’s in tune.”

Jules @ Market – Ocean to Table Seafood & Fish House is located at 111 Market Street, Bristol, PA 19007; 215-458-7622; https://julesatmarket.com. Open Wednesday–Saturday, 4–10 p.m. and for takeout 5–8 p.m. Reservations required. Available for private parties Sunday–Tuesday. BYOB.