Lam
by Frank Quattrone
Gracing a prime parcel of property on the scenic banks of the Delaware, Lambertville Station has been delighting families from Philadelphia to New York, and all points in-between, for nearly forty years. Rising from the metaphoric ashes of the long-defunct Lambertville Railroad Station, the resort offers guests everything from standard and deluxe accommodations overlooking the river to diverse dining options, both al fresco and indoors, in a variety of appealing settings.
Original partners Dan Whittaker, the late Mike Dougherty and a friend named Skip acquired the abandoned train station in 1980. With a hefty combination of sweat, savvy, and old-fashioned chutzpah, they physically gutted the interior, renovated and redesigned the premises themselves, picked up a host of Victorian-era furnishings and antiques to dress up the place, and set about creating an eclectic menu that has clearly stood the evolving taste-test of time.
Even on a cool spring evening, Eve and I could see the seasonal potential of the restaurant. All year round, guests can sip a specialty cocktail, craft beer, or fine wine in the Pub, an authentic wood-grained American tavern with an oval bar and comfortable booths. Or they can enjoy tapas, flatbreads, charcuterie, artisanal cheeses, and hand-crafted chocolates in the popular Wine Cellar, whose stone walls, exposed original wooden beams, and cozy fireplace provide the perfect backdrop to sample one of fifty boutique wines. The main dining rooms, including the Riverside Ballroom, where Sunday Brunch is served, also offer excellent views and artifacts — and European-style service — to complement the culinary creations of Executive Chef Chris Veal and his staff.
But when Mother Nature is especially kind, loyal patrons flock to the Canal Side terrace and bar to dine amid the refreshing breezes of the season. So it’s no wonder that Lambertville Inn has been the destination of countless wedding parties, weekend- and Bucks County Playhouse-Getaways, as well as anniversary bashes, business meetings, and the like. Private events take place in five separate venues on the property, accommodating from fifteen to two-hundred guests.
It’s no surprise, then — according to co-owner Dan Whittaker — that the Lambertville complex can boast eighty-five- to ninety percent repeat business and that the children of the earliest customers now patronize the restaurant and inn with their own families. And because there has been so little staff turnover in the past thirty years, guests have come to know and request specific servers to tend their tables and to bring out their favorite dishes. This is what Dan and current partner Rose Carbanara call “the restaurant’s own special branding.” He says that their guests appreciate the consistency of the menus, as well as the locally sourced products presented by the kitchen staff, including fresh herbs from the restaurant’s own herb garden.
The evening of our visit, Eve and I got to speak with Dan Whittaker and his lovely wife Cindy and enjoyed the well-informed service of pleasantly personable Tyler Strauss. A lifelong oyster aficionado, Tyler recommended an outstanding selection of Blue Point, Sweet Baby Jesus, and Stormy Bay oysters. For starters, we also shared a sizeable portion of Frizzled Brussels Sprouts, flash-fried and tossed with crunchy cashews in a homemade Asian dipping sauce, in addition to tangy sushi-grade Kimchi Tuna, pepper-crusted and pan-seared with Korean-style kimchi atop a seasoned nishiki sticky rice cake, with a touch of wasabi.
Highly recommended is the restaurant’s Seafood Trio for Two, a seafood lover’s starter that could easily serve as the evening’s entrée. Look for generous portions of colossal lump crab meat, a huge lobster claw, and tender jumbo shrimp with a trio of complementary sauces.
Our entrées, to quote Eve, were “out of this world.” As good as her Chesapeake-style colossal Crab Cakes were (and they were excellent) — baked with Meyer lemon butter and served with quinoa rice pilaf and seasonal vegetables, my Jambalaya was even better. A classic blend of chicken, fish, scallops, shrimp, and the most tender sausage I’ve eaten in ages, all simmered in a spicy Creole sauce and served over Southern red rice, it was beautifully balanced, conjuring up memories of my last trip to New Orleans.
Also on the menu for future visits are such specialty items as Brunch Crêpe, three scrambled eggs folded into a crêpe with creamy brie cheese and topped with chunky apple slices; Black Bean & Basmati Burger, a wheat bun sandwich laden with black turtle beans, whole grain basmati rice, jalapeño and cumin, topped with pepper jack cheese and guacamole; and Diver Scallops & Jumbo Shrimp, poached in Moscato wine and fresh herbs, served with lobster risotto. Many menu items are available gluten-free. And there’s a delectable rotating dessert menu to please anyone’s sweet tooth.
No question about it: dining at Lambertville Station Restaurant, whether it’s a casual lunch with friends, a social celebration with family, or a wine-taster’s flight of fancy in the Wine Cellar, is an event — affordable and fun — a veritable feast for the eyes and palate.
Lambertville Station Restaurant and Inn is located at 11 Bridge Street, Lambertville, NJ 08530; 609-397-8300; www.lambertvillestation.com. Open Monday – Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday Brunch, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Riverside Ballroom and private function space available for weddings, social celebrations, and meetings. Information on accommodations and the Inn, call 609-397-4400.