PAUL F WESLEY
Odettes
by Frank Quattrone
Sophisticated. Historic. Romantic. Idyllic. Choose your own adjective. They all fit when describing Odette’s rising star as the newest must-see destination in New Hope.
Sitting on the patio deck, sipping a glass of Pinot Grigio, Eve and I couldn’t decide what was most appealing — the occasional kayaker or youthful partygoers enjoying themselves on a makeshift barge within view of the whitewater rush across the river, or the pleasant palette on the canal path just below our cozy perch — bicyclists, joggers, couples strolling arm in arm waving at us, people walking their dogs, some barking at the gaggle of Canada geese squawking overhead.
Judiciously placed heating elements promise similar views any time of the year for those who prefer alfresco dining to the swanky piano bar and lounge or the elegant, yet warm and inviting main dining room. Warmed by outdoor fireplaces and heating units, The Roof offers yet another vibrant experience (for members only), with even more spectacular views of the river.
It’s all part of an amazing project, more than six years in the making, aligning Pennsylvania’s Department of Conservation and Natural Resources, the borough of New Hope, and Refined Hospitality, the company that manages River House at Odette’s, the luxurious hotel now standing at the site once graced by Chez Odette. According to Ron Gorodesky, the general manager of Refined Hospitality, “This tremendous partnership has resulted in a win-win-win for the borough, the commonwealth, and the guests who will be enjoying our hospitality.
“The beautiful historical building that housed the original restaurant,” continued Gorodesky, “has been literally moved to a location a half-mile away, between two canals on a wing dam on the river. It took a couple thousand engineering decisions, including elevating the building eleven feet and carefully moving it. New Hope is in the process of developing it as an historical attraction. And finally, we have the River House at Odette’s!” which opened on September 28.
Chez Odette was a landmark restaurant created by former actress Odette Myrtil Logan. She purchased the original River House, New Hope’s first hotel, and rechristened as a chic French bistro with live Parisian-style entertainment. It thrived until it was finally shuttered in the late 2000s. Ultimately, it was rescued by Refined Hospitality.
A sense of understated luxury suffuses the Odette’s experience. Although the menu items range from $8.00 for dips served with house-made focaccia, to $62.00 for a classic 16-ounce ribeye, the restaurant is not the least bit stuffy or fussy. The friendly staff greet all guests with a sincere warmth not always felt in upper-tier dining establishments.
But my guess is that visitors will return less for the ambiance than for the exquisite menu fashioned by Executive Chef Adam Sheff and his kitchen team. One wonders whether the chef’s surname augured a culinary career. He laughs when asked this question, and says, simply, “Growing up, I always wanted to make scrambled eggs and pancakes for my huge family, which included twenty-plus cousins. We were always surrounded by conversation over good food. That experience made food an essential part of my life. I’ve always loved to cook, to try new flavors, to learn new techniques.
“I’m fortunate to be working alongside my sous chef, Nathan Kasubick, who’s worked at Tinto and 10 Arts, and Alexis Ramos, our phenomenal pastry chef. Our menu, which I would describe as contemporary American with French undertones, to respect the history of Odette’s, has really been a collaborative venture, with significant input from the staff and from our guests.”
On the evening of our visit, we began our meal with the Charcuterie Plate, a savory assortment of soppressata, prosciutto, house-pickled vegetables, chicken liver mousse, and little rounds of mortadella, served with seeded “drunken” mustard and grilled bread. Our congenial server, Tim Finnerty, next brought us a modestly titled but absolutely delectable Wedge, a classic blue cheese American salad bursting with cherry tomatoes, pickled red onion, shaved almonds, chives, and sinfully uber-flavored candied bacon.
After some moments of enjoying the various river views, we proceeded to our entrées. A steak lover from way back, Eve was delighted with her 16-ounce Ribeye, served with house-made fries, while I reveled in my sumptuous Seared Scallops, served with a zesty corn succotash, roasted peppers, and charred tomato purée. Simply exquisite. Chef Sheff’s boyhood kitchen capers and his studies at New York’s French Culinary Institute (now the International Cultural Center) were clearly at work here!
Then came the almost impossible choice of desserts. Pastry Chef Alexis Ramos, a youthful graduate of Johnson & Wales who once toiled at Congress Hall in Cape May and then six years at the elegant The Reeds in Stone Harbor, said she “loves the challenge of reworking familiar recipes.” So, amid an array of house-made sorbets and ice creams—think sea salt caramel, coffee bourbon, and roasted strawberry and white chocolate, among the latter—and French delicacies like Wild Berry Clafoutis, a mouth-watering melange of strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries warmed in soft pastry, Eve and I each shared a strawberry-flavored treat and went home very happy indeed.
But before we left, our server regaled us with a quippy house rule regarding the coffee bourbon ice cream. “You have to be twenty-one or over to order this,” Tim said. “It’s really potent. They’re very strict with this.” So ended a most entertaining evening at New Hope’s newest hot spot.
Odette’s Restaurant & Lounge is located at the River House, 274 South River Road, New Hope, PA 18938; 215-682-2022; www.riverhousenewhope.com. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations recommended. Available for catered affairs of every kind.