By Frank D. Quattrone
Where does one begin describing a restaurant that serves, and satisfies, so many desires? For those who enjoy sharing flavored tobacco from a communal hookah, there’s an intimate hookah lounge on the striking ground floor, furnished with all manner of burnished coffee urns, pipes, and trays, exotic robes and Turkish carpets. For those craving a Casablanca-era night club, it’s here for your nocturnal pleasure. For those who savor the snapping cymbals and sensual undulations of a comely belly-dancer, you’ll also find it here, on weekends, when the decibel level is at its height.
In the more modest street-level café, woven mini-flags of several Middle Eastern nations adorn the walls and a wraparound bar serves up fresh juice and soft drinks. At Zad Albasha Mediterranean Grill, you bring your own wine or brew and let the accomplished kitchen do the rest.
The name of the restaurant is a treat in itself. According to proprietor Ahmed Shaat, a convivial man with a refreshing sense of humor, “basha” is the red hat worn by a leader, a big man, a pasha, an important presence. And in the subtle, complex Arabic language, “zad” has many meanings, including the substance, the food, the feast. Putting it all together, Zad Albasha is a place where you’ll be treated to a feast fit for welcome, honored guests.
The evening of our visit, a table circled by six hearty Russian-American friends celebrating a birthday was roaring with laughter and good-natured chatter. Adding to the camaraderie was Ahmed Shaat himself, who says he loves mixing it up with his guests, sharing bon mots and recommending some of the restaurant’s finest dishes. On that score, there is plenty to choose from.
Co-owner Thoraya Altamari, Ahmed’s Jordanian-raised wife, soon came by to recommend the restaurant’s Mezze Trio—an excellent introduction to Algerian Chef Annes’ inspired menu. The three cold appetizers, served in neat rectangular trays with warm pita for dipping, included the familiar Middle Eastern staple, Hummus, along with a fine Mouhammara, a spicy Syrian dish blending roasted red peppers and walnuts with a pomegranate glaze, and our surprise favorite, Copponata, the chef’s amazing take on a great international dish, consisting of stewed eggplant, olives, and capers in tomato sauce, brushed with pomegranate syrup.
We were tempted to try the Large Mezze, your choice of three cold and three hot appetizers, the latter of which included Sambousek, a Lebanese crispy puff pastry with your choice of seasoned ground beef, cheese, or spinach; Arancini, a Sicilian staple of mozzarella-stuffed rice balls served over tomato sauce; and two pieces of Fried Kibbeh, another Lebanese-Syrian specialty of savory crispy cracked wheat stuffed with ground meat. Some treats for a later visit!
As we were dining and the table of birthday celebrants was filling the room with raucous good cheer, the music changed from pleasantly melodic to rousing. Before our eyes appeared the lovely Meesha, a Lebanese-born belly dancer who drew the birthday boys up from their seats to join her in jovial gyrations. Ahmed, who was born in Riyadh, the Saudi-Arabian capital, could be seen laughing with his delighted guests, as Thoraya clapped along with the music.
Meesha, whose family owned a Lebanese restaurant, dances at Zad Albasha any time the restaurant hosts a special party. After the dancing ended, Mona, our gracious server, brought us our entrée, Seafood Tagine, an evening special. And special it was—a generous bowl of mussels, clams, scallops, shrimp, calamari, and octopus swimming in a light marinara pool of red peppers, onions, and plum tomatoes, scented with bay leaves and garlic. Simply scrumptious—even the following evening, as we could not finish the dish that night.
Ahmed said that his guests’ favorite entrée is the Zad Albasha Mix Grill, consisting of one shish taouk (skewered grilled cubes of chicken), one grilled kofta (a well-seasoned ground beef meatball), and two lamb chops over rice, complemented by grilled vegetables, hummus, and salad (per person!). Although we had no room for dessert, we could have ordered Baklava or Kunafah, a spun pastry soaked in a sweet, sugar-based syrup called attar, layered with cheese, clotted cream, pistachio, or nuts.
In the presence of the beaming Ahmed, in a voice that resonated throughout the restaurant, Igor Fedorov, one of the birthday celebrants, told us, “I eat out a lot. And everything here is prepared perfect, including the [Yemeni] coffee and tea.”Before we left, Mona treated us to a tour of the exotic entertainment center below, site of the hookah lounge, the sports bar, private dining rooms, and the night club, where Meesha was dancing on a stage with a number of happy patrons. Ahmed, who also works in construction with several of his brothers (he is one of fourteen siblings!) assured us that “guests don’t want to leave because our hospitality is what they enjoy the most.”
I can easily second the emotion.
Zad Albasha Mediterranean Grill & Hookah Lounge is located at 29 South Main Street, Doylestown, PA; 215-867-8899; www.zadalbashamediterraneangrill.com. Open Tuesday – Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.; & Sunday, 12 to 12. Closed Monday. Serves Halal foods. BYOB. Reservations required! Available for catering, private parties. DJ & belly dancers, weekends.